Dance over to Mambo

Mambo
19th and Allen Streets, Allentown

Many of us in Allentown's West End Theater District have been waiting (and waiting and waiting) for Mambo to open on the corner of 19th and Allen streets. Finally, our wait is over. And based on my recent lunch, it was worth it. Named for the Cuban dance popularized during the 1950s, Mambo aims to serve a variety of dishes with a Latin influence -- some Mexican, some Spanish, some Caribbean.

For lunch, personable owner and chef Johansen Hernandez offers homemade chicken, fish (cod steaks?), pork and thinly sliced beef. The stewed chicken was tender, moist and wonderfully seasoned -- but not overly spicy. My friend, Rob, had the fish, which was equally wonderful. Johansen gave us samples of the beef, which simmered in a light tomato-based sauce. It offered a nice balance of traditional seasonings without overpowering the beef. That's next on my list. We weren't offered a menu -- we just went to the counter where we got a description of each dish and samples. (Try that at a chain restaurant.)

Each entree comes with rice and beans. The beans are a treat by themselves -- tender pintos swimming in a delectable sauce. They begged to be scooped atop the rice. (We listened.) A fairly standard side salad with tomato accompanied the meal. The price came in around $7.00 a person.

Johansen will offer an extended menu soon, which will include paella for two, octopus salad, red snapper dishes, and basic Mexican dishes like enchiladas and burritos.

As for atmosphere, Mambo is clean though relatively plain and straightforward. You're coming here for the authentic food -- not to be wowed by the decor. Mambo is BYO. I'd say beer is probably a stronger candidate than wine given the ample seasoning. But if it's wine you want, the state store is only 100 steps to the west.

Overall, Mambo is exactly the sort of business that makes neighborhoods like the West End distinct from the homogeneous suburbs, where Applebee's, TGIFriday's, Friendly's and the like offer formulaic menus, cookie-cutter decor and saccharine wait staff. For that reason alone, Mambo is worth visiting and supporting. Luckily, we have a restaurateur who is passionate about his food -- and confident in his ability to delight his customers. That seals the deal for me.