Colombian in Fountain Hill

Cuquita
960-B Broadway
Bethlehem, PA 18015

One of the best things about eating at small, family-owned ethnic restaurants is that they tend to draw a crowd that's in the know. (Conversely, the regulars at TGIFridays can probably dierct you to every Ruby Tuesday and Applebee's in a 40-mile radius.) On a recent visit to Tulum, a kindred foodie recommended a new Colombian restaurant in Fountain Hill, about a mile from five points (412/378). How could I pass up a tip like that?

Cuquita is the last store in an old-school strip along Broadway. I was perplexed as I approached it: a neon "pizza" sign shone in the window above the door. I saw South American decor inside, so I figured the sign was a mere remnant from the previous establishment. I was mostly right.

Cuquita does specialize in Colombian food, which is similar to other Latin-style restaurants I've visited. Colombian food tends to be a bit more adventurous with slightly more emphasis on seafood. Entrees on the menu ranged from grilled steaks, pork and chicken to braised meats that require long cooks to break down connective tissue. I chose to start with corn pie. The only other corn pie I've eaten was at Walp's, that long-ago demolished epicenter of Dutch food. Cuquita's version resembled a deep fritter, topped with a thick chunk of American cheese. It was dense and flavorful, but too much to handle for one person.

As an entree, I ordered the Creole tongue -- a braised beef tongue topped with onions and peppers. (I'm not sure of the Creole-Colombian connection. That's worth asking about next time.) The tongue was tender and flavorful, complemented nicely by the stewed veggies atop. Succulent red beans and yellow rice rounded out the meal, which would have been tough to complete even at dinner. My guest had a delightful chicken kabob topped with a piquant cilantro sauce -- a much lighter choice than my appetizer + entree.

Cuquita has bountiful dessert options. I asked the owner (a pleasant, helpful man) which selection I should try. He pointed me to an empanania (forgive my spelling), a bread-like pocket filled with guava jam and cream cheese. It was not as assertively sugary as most American desserts -- it was subtle and balanced.

And about the pizza sign: the owner still makes pizza in the Magic Chef oven left behind by the previous owner. He said regulars come in and request it, so he's not making any changes. My guess is that it won't take long for some of them to convert over to the Colombian food. It's a treat.