Tuesday, January 30, 2007
Bring on the bizarre
My recent octopus tentacle salad at The Rock has inspired me on a side mission: to find the most bizarre menu items in the Lehigh Valley. Some of the pre-meal side dishes at the Kim Chee Express might make the list. I'm not looking to be as wildly adventurous as Anthony Bourdain, who during his travels has injested unknown items that the locals claimed would "make him strong," in obvious reference to his sexual potency. Simply put, I'm game for some offbeat, extraordinary ingredients and preparation. Any recommendations?
Friday, January 12, 2007
The Center of the Universe
Paprika's
1180 Main Street, Hellertown
With a last name like Drabenstott, the last thing you'd expect me to admit was that I'm half Hungarian. Well, I am. My maternal grandparents were both Hungarian. Their grandparents came over on the boat. So while I've confessed that I'm not an expert in many cuisines, I can confidently say that I grew up eating the most authentic Hungarian food this side of Budapest. (For some reason we affectionately referred to the Hungarian capital city as the center of the universe. I have yet to figure that out.)
For me, the new center of the universe is in Hellertown: Paprika's. I had heard good things from friends and read a favorable review in The Morning Call. So I had to check it out for myself and see if it could conjure up memories of my Grandmother Mimi's cooking.
The interior is plain and bordering on unfinished. A galvanized ventilation duct cut across the center of the ceiling and appeared to be a patchworked afterthought. Other than a few Hungarian posters and maps, it looked like a standard restaurant.
Perhaps that's because they focus their energy on the food. I started with a bowl of chicken soup that was obviously homemade. Thick with cabbage, carrots and noodles, the hearty soup was
everything I would have expected, and set the tone for the rest of the meal. For my salad dish, I ordered a traditional cucumber salad, which featured cukes in a sweet, creamy, thin, sour cream-like sauce. Again, fresh and delicious. (My wife had a standard dinner salad -- nothing special.) Our entrees arrived once they were completed in the kitchen. My wife had the Chicken Paprika's (paprikash): delectible chunks of tender chicken were enveloped in a paprika cream sauce and served atop small dumplings. Sublime. Like the soup, my Hungarian goulash was simple yet soulful -- perfectly cooked cubes of beef, potatoes and carrots swam in a rich beef broth. I ate more than I should have. It was that good.
Certainly, my meal at Paprika's did more than fill my belly. It evoked recollections of my childhood, sitting at the dinner table with my grandparents. That's the power of food -- it has a remarkable ability to leave an indelible print on your sensory memory.
All this pleasure came cheap: under $30 for the both of us. It's BYOB. Of course, that could also stand for Bring Your Own Buttonbox. For after a dinner at Paprika's, you'll be inclined to dance the polka all night to work off your wonderful meal.
1180 Main Street, Hellertown
With a last name like Drabenstott, the last thing you'd expect me to admit was that I'm half Hungarian. Well, I am. My maternal grandparents were both Hungarian. Their grandparents came over on the boat. So while I've confessed that I'm not an expert in many cuisines, I can confidently say that I grew up eating the most authentic Hungarian food this side of Budapest. (For some reason we affectionately referred to the Hungarian capital city as the center of the universe. I have yet to figure that out.)
For me, the new center of the universe is in Hellertown: Paprika's. I had heard good things from friends and read a favorable review in The Morning Call. So I had to check it out for myself and see if it could conjure up memories of my Grandmother Mimi's cooking.
The interior is plain and bordering on unfinished. A galvanized ventilation duct cut across the center of the ceiling and appeared to be a patchworked afterthought. Other than a few Hungarian posters and maps, it looked like a standard restaurant.
Perhaps that's because they focus their energy on the food. I started with a bowl of chicken soup that was obviously homemade. Thick with cabbage, carrots and noodles, the hearty soup was
everything I would have expected, and set the tone for the rest of the meal. For my salad dish, I ordered a traditional cucumber salad, which featured cukes in a sweet, creamy, thin, sour cream-like sauce. Again, fresh and delicious. (My wife had a standard dinner salad -- nothing special.) Our entrees arrived once they were completed in the kitchen. My wife had the Chicken Paprika's (paprikash): delectible chunks of tender chicken were enveloped in a paprika cream sauce and served atop small dumplings. Sublime. Like the soup, my Hungarian goulash was simple yet soulful -- perfectly cooked cubes of beef, potatoes and carrots swam in a rich beef broth. I ate more than I should have. It was that good.
Certainly, my meal at Paprika's did more than fill my belly. It evoked recollections of my childhood, sitting at the dinner table with my grandparents. That's the power of food -- it has a remarkable ability to leave an indelible print on your sensory memory.
All this pleasure came cheap: under $30 for the both of us. It's BYOB. Of course, that could also stand for Bring Your Own Buttonbox. For after a dinner at Paprika's, you'll be inclined to dance the polka all night to work off your wonderful meal.
Sunday, January 07, 2007
Rock on

The Rock
559 East Broad Street, Bethlehem
(610) 625-3541
I'd been watching this corner establishment on East Broad Street in Bethlehem for about a year wondering if it were on its way out or on its way in. After reading a brief article in Kurt Blumenau's retail watch, I learned it was gearing up for a grand opening in late Fall 2006. I've since visited The Rock for lunch and had an excellent experience.
The Rock has seating for about 25 people inside its tidy, new interior. The Rock bills itself as "international cuisine," with a definite lean toward Caribbean, Mexican and Cuban genres.
For my lunch, I opted for the most unusual item on the menu: octopus salad. Served only Jueves y Viernes (Thursday and Friday), I figured it had to be special and fresh. I ordered the small version for $7.15. The menu wasn't lying when it said octopus -- the salad was chock full of tentacles amid a vinegar and oil base. Chopped lettuce and peppers rounded out the dish. Four tender, fried plantains flanked the edges of the salad plate, offering a tasty diversion. The verdict: delicious. The octopus was tender and light. (I later learned from the chef that he poaches the octopus for about an hour and a half.) The dressing was just heavy enough to bind the ingredients without overpowering the subtle octopus. I rounded the meal out with outstanding black beans that were studded with chunks of green olive, which provided tang and depth to the dish. To munch on while I waited for the salad, they served broad Chinese-style fried chow mein noodles with salsa -- an odd combination.
Kurt's article indicates that The Rock is known for its Cuban sandwiches. Considering the recent closure of Churros Cafe in Allentown, The Rock could be the only restaurant where you can get an authentic Cuban sandwich. That alone is worth supporting. Other more exotic menu items include garlic shrimp with fried plantains and chopped salad ($8.49), whole fried red snapper on Creole sauce with rice or mashed plantains ($13.95) and Spanish steak with onions, rice, beans and chopped salad ($7.50).
As noted, the chef made a point to visit my table and talk with me. He indicated that he's looking to open for dinner on Thursdays and Fridays in early 2007. He shared a menu draft that features roasted swordfish with coriander scallion pesto, Spanish pork medallions and grilled ahi tuna in tomato beurre blanc. I'd have to say the options look adventerous and creative, though there's not a strong theme tying them together.
Service was friendly and helpful. I'll be back to try the Cuban sandwich.
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