Thursday, August 09, 2007

Sogo - finally!

Sogo
237 Northampton St.
Easton, PA
(610) 250-0198

Thank you to everyone who suggested that I visit Sogo in Easton. My wife and I went on a recent Friday and had a wonderful experience.

Sogo is the newest arrival in a burgeoning restaurant scene in downtown Easton. It's not exploding by any means, but if you look at the recent additions (River Grille, Sette Luna, Ocean , with others on the way) it has more growth than other Valley downtowns. Sogo is not only new -- it's hip and metropolitan. Its decor could be transplanted into Philly or NYC without much of a stretch. Friday night was busy, but we got a table without reservations and without a wait.

We started with seaweed salad to see how Sogo would treat this conventional dish. The answer: pretty well. The tender seaweed was topped with a mellow sesame dressing that was not overpowering like others I've had. It was the right size, texture and flavor for a salad.

For an entree, I selected two sushi rolls: a hard rock roll (soft shell crab and veggies) and tuna roll topped with caviar. Prepared by a bandana-clad trio of Asian sushi chefs, both were fresh and among the best sushi rolls I've ever had. (Other rolls beckoned, auguring a future visit.) My wife ordered a thai-inspired spicy chicken and shrimp dish. With tender shrimp and a light coconut sauce, the entree was tangy and satisfying, though nothing too different than you could get in an everyday Thai place.

A quick note on the bathroom right off the bar: you won't find a more decorative floor anywhere in the Lehigh Valley. An intricate mosaic tile pattern stretches from wall to wall. With cool fixtures and accessories, it's worth drinking extra water to ensure a visit. But beware: there are only two unisex bathrooms. I waited both times I ventured there.

Thursday, August 02, 2007

Colombian in Fountain Hill

Cuquita
960-B Broadway
Bethlehem, PA 18015

One of the best things about eating at small, family-owned ethnic restaurants is that they tend to draw a crowd that's in the know. (Conversely, the regulars at TGIFridays can probably dierct you to every Ruby Tuesday and Applebee's in a 40-mile radius.) On a recent visit to Tulum, a kindred foodie recommended a new Colombian restaurant in Fountain Hill, about a mile from five points (412/378). How could I pass up a tip like that?

Cuquita is the last store in an old-school strip along Broadway. I was perplexed as I approached it: a neon "pizza" sign shone in the window above the door. I saw South American decor inside, so I figured the sign was a mere remnant from the previous establishment. I was mostly right.

Cuquita does specialize in Colombian food, which is similar to other Latin-style restaurants I've visited. Colombian food tends to be a bit more adventurous with slightly more emphasis on seafood. Entrees on the menu ranged from grilled steaks, pork and chicken to braised meats that require long cooks to break down connective tissue. I chose to start with corn pie. The only other corn pie I've eaten was at Walp's, that long-ago demolished epicenter of Dutch food. Cuquita's version resembled a deep fritter, topped with a thick chunk of American cheese. It was dense and flavorful, but too much to handle for one person.

As an entree, I ordered the Creole tongue -- a braised beef tongue topped with onions and peppers. (I'm not sure of the Creole-Colombian connection. That's worth asking about next time.) The tongue was tender and flavorful, complemented nicely by the stewed veggies atop. Succulent red beans and yellow rice rounded out the meal, which would have been tough to complete even at dinner. My guest had a delightful chicken kabob topped with a piquant cilantro sauce -- a much lighter choice than my appetizer + entree.

Cuquita has bountiful dessert options. I asked the owner (a pleasant, helpful man) which selection I should try. He pointed me to an empanania (forgive my spelling), a bread-like pocket filled with guava jam and cream cheese. It was not as assertively sugary as most American desserts -- it was subtle and balanced.

And about the pizza sign: the owner still makes pizza in the Magic Chef oven left behind by the previous owner. He said regulars come in and request it, so he's not making any changes. My guess is that it won't take long for some of them to convert over to the Colombian food. It's a treat.