In search of unique pizza

I had the pleasure of visiting Lilly's Pizza in Raleigh, N.C., about two weeks ago. Go to the website and click on "Toppings." They have 77 (!) selections, ranging from porcini mushroom oil to goat cheese to smoked oysters to atomic tofu and baby corn. The place was jammed with families, couples and college students (it's close to NC State).

Where's the imagination of Lehigh Valley pizzerias? On rare occasion, you can find artichoke hearts, cilantro, meatballs and maybe barbecued chicken. How tough would it be to offer a little variety? I guarantee you: a place like Lilly's in the Lehigh Valley would clean up.

BBQ in the LV

If asked to nominate a genre of food to typify "American Ethnic," I'd quickly raise two greasy hands for barbecue. There's nothing more comforting and authentic than meat cooked low and slow over smoky hardwood.

My travels have taken me to barbecue hotbeds like North Carolina and Texas. And during the last three years, I've spent more time with my Weber smoker than I have with many members of my family. (Disclaimer: much of my family is 400 miles away in Ohio; the smoker is 40 feet away in my garage.) So I know what to look and taste for in barbecue: tender and moist meat, a pink smoke ring near the meat's exterior and "bark" that concentrates the flavor of the rub.

I've visited three BBQ establishments near my Allentown home. Here are my rankings in order of preference:

1. Grumpy's Barbecue Roadhouse. Top of the heap. I went with my wife last weekend. The pork ribs were phenomenal -- fall-off-the-bone delicious. The pulled pork was moist and imbued with smoky goodness. Shredded beef brisket was at once hearty and toothsome. And the meaty smoked chicken leg was fork-tender; I hardly needed a knife. Grumpy's coleslaw -- a traditional BBQ side -- had only a light creamy sauce covering the cabbage and veggies, as opposed to other joints that drown the chopped salad. Atmosphere was a B+: the dining room almost seemed a little too nice with striped wall paper. And I'm a fan of paper towel rolls at the table, which were missing. Grumpy's has a pile of napkins. Overall, top-quality BBQ -- even if this were 500 miles south.

2. CC's Wooden Grill in Kutztown. I noticed this place when heading toward La Cocina, an excellent Mexican restaurant on West Main Street. I stopped for lunch, so a full platter wasn't an option. I opted for a pulled pork sandwich ($5.25) with "nasty" sauce, a vinegary concoction. The meat was tender and gently smoked, yet only slightly above average. I selected a side of roasted sweet potatoes ($3.75) that, despite being a bit oily, were refreshingly different. A half rack of ribs is $14.75; there's no brisket. Homey decor and friendly service made this a worthwhile stop between Reading and Allentown. (Note: cash only and BYOB.)

3. Conway's BBQ. In a word: ugh. I had a pulled pork sandwich last year that tasted like it was cooked in a crockpot then kept in a steamer. Virtually devoid of smoky flavor, it was watery and plain. The strip-mall location on Tilghman Street (Kuhnsville) had almost no personality. I see Conway's plans to open locations in the Carolina's, Georgia and Florida. Given the discriminating BBQ lovers down south, I don't like Conway's prospects.

I have yet to sample Dickey's (new chain outlet on Schoenersville Road) or Crazy Jake's north of Easton. I've heard decent things about both.

Go get your pork on!

Quick Italian Bite

I've only been to Sette Luna in Easton three times, but each visit makes me want to go back for more food more often. My most recent experience bolstered my opinion that this is one of the best authentic Italian restaurants in the region.

We started with an outstanding cheese plate, which my former cheesemonger friend, Michele, deemed excellent. The tre colore (three color) salad of Belgian endive, raddicchio and arugula had the bitterness of the tender greens offset with olive oil and lemon with pepper and sprinkles of sea salt. "Delicious" doesn't do it justice. My entree, a simple pasta with bolognese sauce, demonstrated the kitchen's ability to make even the most traditional dish sublime. The meat sauce was thick and rich (obviously from hours of gentle simmering) and studded with diced aromatic vegetables.

I must add that our waitress was affable, knowledgeable and attentive. You come to a restaurant like Sette Luna expecting good service, which makes exceptional service that much more impressive.

I could eat here once a week and not tire of the experience.

Ethnic food fest in Allentown

Celebrate Allentown
September 13, noon-8 p.m.
800 and 900 blocks of Hamilton

I've always said (to anyone willing to listen) that what the Lehigh Valley needs is a real food festival -- our unique version of Taste of Chicago. After all, the people in this area love to eat. And in the 15 years their tastes have moved, well, beyond scrapple.

Finally, it appears that someone has taken the lead. The City of Allentown will host Celebrate Allentown on September 13. The event will feature ethnic food, lively music, interactive fun, performances, cooking demos and more along a two-block area downtown. This is a good start. Ultimately, I could envision a Mayfair-sized ethnic food festival in Cedar Beach. Think of all the ethnic cuisines in the city that could be represented: Thai, Vietnamese, Mexican, Latin, Chinese, Turkish, Greek, Middle Eastern, Italian, Japanese -- heck, even some Pennsylvania Dutch.

What a wonderful way to celebrate the diversity of Allentown. Unfortunately, I will not be able to attend. If anyone is able to go, I'd welcome a guest blogger here to share the experience with others.

(Thanks to Vanessa at The After Work Chronicles for passing this along.)

Mexican near PPL

La Tortilla
33 N. 9th St., Allentown

A couple of months ago, if someone had told you about a Mexican Restaurant adjacent to PPL in downtown Allentown, you probably would have thought of Johnny Manana's, the much-ballyhooed (but soon to be shuttered) establishment along Hamilton. However, a new, authentic Mexican restaurant has opened in the former 9th Street Loop cafe location: La Tortilla.

After a recent lunch visit with my fellow ethnic food adventurer, Rob, I've concluded that La Tortilla is big on quality, but small on variety. The menu features rather conventional fare: tacos, burritos, enchiladas, tortas, tostadas and a handful of entrees.

But this is no Taco Bell. The homemade flavor starts immediately with chips and freshly made salsa -- nicely tangy with finely chopped tomatoes and fresh cliantro. Outstanding. My chicken taco had seasoned chunks of succulent chicken with a bit of onion and cilantro and a light sauce. Having recently visited San Diego, I had to try La Tortilla's take on the fish taco -- lightly breaded and fried chunks of white fish with cabbage and a creamy tartar sauce. Definitely California-worthy. The accompanying beans (toothsome) and rice (flavorful and fluffy) rounded out the meal.

Judging by the rash of PPLers filing in, La Tortilla has quickly garnered a reputation for quality food and good service. Its hours (Mon-Fri 7-7 and Sat 12-8, closed Sun) are more conducive to a quick lunch than a long dinner.