Four Aces? I'm game

Four Aces Grill
13th and Hamilton, Allentown

As noted in an earlier post, Four Aces is now open in Allentown. I heard from several sources -- and read in Morning Call articles and ads -- that it served a variety of food including offbeat meats like ostrich and bison. Coincidentally, I asked Beyond Scrapple readers two years ago if they knew of anything more exotic than goat in the Lehigh Valley. I guess Four Aces has the response, albeit delayed.

My family and I ended up there after unsuccessful stops at Morton's (in the former LoBaido's on 8th/Gordon, closed for family emergency) and Black Orchid (moved to East Side, I've been told). As an aside, I was distressed to see Morton's signage touting "food with a Southern flare." I hope that the misspelling is not a warning signal, so to speak.

Back to Four Aces. The restaurant was about half full on a Saturday evening at 6:30. We selected a table on the awning-covered front deck -- a nice, sheltered vantage point to enjoy the cool summer breeze and watch the incoming storm roll in. The decor is tasteful; mostly muted, earth tones with assorted artwork on the walls -- definitely a step up from the Rock Around The Clock Cafe that previously inhabited the space.

The eclectic menu featured a wide variety of dishes of various persuasions. It's tough to characterize the cuisine by ethnicity. Instead, I'd call it "adventurous." That's the theme and it works.

We started with three appetizers: calamari, jalepeno poppers and salmon cakes. The calamari were deep fried, but were served with a curry-like dip that was a nice complement for the squid. The petite salmon cakes (3) were sauteed perfectly to golden brown and finished with sauce that I cannot recall now other than it was a perfect complement. The poppers were homemade -- not the institutional variety filled with cheese product. Fresh, spicy jalepenos were stuffed with tiny shrimp, andouille sausage and cheddar cheese, then breaded, deep fried and served with a creamy lime sauce. Luckily, they were too spicy for my wife; I got to enjoy three of them.

For entrees, I could not resist trying the ostrich burger. Seasoned with Moroccan spices, studded with pine nuts and topped with an apricot, it was one of the most original burgers I've tasted. (For the record, I place the taste of ostrich somewhere between turkey and ground beef.) The handcut fries were a perfect accompaniment. The other members of my family ordered caesar salads topped with chicken, which arrived with the head of romaine intact and freshly grilled. The kids found the charring a bit odd, but overcame their concern once they tasted it. Nicely done.

We ordered a creme brulee for dessert and found it average.

The service was a bit slow and inefficient. (For example, the waitress brought us waters two at a time rather than using a small tray to carry four. Too many trips back and forth.) I think they're still working out the kinks. But it's BYO, so if you're looking to relax a bit and enjoy conversation with friends, bring a bottle of wine to share and don't rush it. It's worth the wait.

I spoke to the owner, who said he's looking for sources for kangaroo and alligator. I like where he's heading. He's taking a concept that no one else is trying and he's doing it well. I wish him the best.