Authentic Russian dinners -- at a deli? Da!

Black Forest Deli -- Kiev Lehigh Valley night
745 7th Avenue
Bethlehem, PA
(610) 865-3036


(Photos by Megan Duerring, @meganallyn)

As I've learned time and again, it's often the most unassuming restaurants that serve up some of the most delicious, authentic ethnic food. Such is the case at the curiously-named Black Forest Deli, which every Thursday evening offers a reservation-only five-course Russian dinner (I counted six) that combines homemade delicacies in the most friendly, gracious family-style atmosphere you'll ever encounter.

For their weekly Kiev Lehigh Valley meal, the mother-daughter duo of Milana and Vica Shparber run a long, red-draped table through the middle of their modest establishment and have up to 16 guests sit communally. There are no intimate tables for two: this is an event to be savored with others.

Welcoming us to the table were plates of deviled eggs spiked with bits of marinated mushrooms as well as bite-sized open-face sardine-tomato-cucumber sandwiches. Both were sprinkled liberally with fresh dill, which could easily be called the national herb of Russia. The sardine sandwich was especially delightful, with the pungency of the sardine balanced by the freshness of the vegetables.

Next, Vica brought bowls of hearty Russian borsch, a traditional cabbage and beet soup served with a dollop of sour cream and topped with fresh dill. (Aside: have you ever tasted a bad "dollop" of anything? Dollops rock.) She accompanied it with a "pirozhok" -- a meat pie with a flaky, ethereal pastry. Often available for lunch, the borscht is a revelation as it alternates among tart, sour and silky flavors. It's a meal in itself with the pirozkok.

Course two (three to my count) consisted of a variety of Russian salads served family style. Olivie (a Russian style potato salad) and a crab salad stuffed in a tomato were excellent, but the two standouts were diced chicken liver with marinated onions/peppers (nice interplay of bitter and sweet) and chicken salad with grated horseradish and chopped apples in a yogurt/lemon dressing. I found myself sampling seconds of the latter two.

In the middle of the salad course, Vica appeared with a tray of shot glasses filled with vodka. How much more traditional can you get? I partook and helped a friend finish hers. Bonus.

Course three: pierogies stuffed with either potato filling or saurkraut. They arrived in a deep bowl topped with fried onions and sour cream. Simply put, these were the best pierogies I've ever had. The toothsome pasta shells glimmered with melted butter. I'd never had them filled with saurkraut, something that I had missed out on for the first 42 years of my life. The kraut provided a welcome flavor punch to the typically starchy dish. And with the sour cream -- divine.

The main course afforded a choice of halupkis (stuffed cabbage with rice and meat in a tomato broth) served with mashed potatoes or beef strogonoff served with kasha, or buckwheat. Both were accompanied by a tomato/cucumber/onion & dill salad. While the sturdy halupkis were straightforward and good, the strogonoff was the winner here. Ultra-tender chunks of beef (which had been braising since 10 a.m. according to Vica) amid a delicate, creamy sauce immediately erased any visions of the Hamberger Helper style of the dish familiar to college students. This was the real deal.

The final dessert course -- in addition to plates of fresh fruit -- consisted of blintzes filled with homemade farmers cheese and topped with sauteed berries and ice cream. They served it with compote, an all-natural fruit and berry juice that in Russia is served for dessert and during the day instead of soda.

Between the incredible food, vodka, communal atmosphere and gracious hospitality of Vica, the three-hour meal was one of my most enjoyable food experiences of the year. I can't recommend the evening enough. And I suggest you follow the effervescent Vica on Twitter (@blackforestdeli and @kievLV) and on Facebook. She and the Black Forest Deli are a true delight. (I'll save the phenomenal lunch selections for a different post.) Another delight is the price: only $35 a person.

In fact, the meal compelled me to return to food blogging. I will have reports on Alando (Kenyan) and Mexico Lindo (Mexican, duh) soon. And I'm scheduled to attend the preview of Sangria in Allentown next Thursday. It's comforting to see so much activity on the ethnic restaurant scene in the Valley. I'm happy to be back.