Beyond Scrapple - A Guide To Lehigh Valley Ethnic Restaurants

Pervian Food Festival today (10/30) in Allentown

2010-10-30T06:02:00.003-04:00

Do we have wonderful ethnic food diversity in Lehigh Valley or what? Just read about a Peruvian Food Festival today from 3-7 at Bucky Boyle Park in Allentown. (Thanks again to Kelly Huth from the Express-Times.) Never imagined entering "Peruvian" as a tag!

Wine pairing event at Sangria, 11/17

2010-10-27T11:02:00.003-04:00

Received this recently from Sangria and thought compelled to share it. I'd prefer to know what the wines are, but I like the menu selections. And the price ($65/person) is certainly reasonable.

Sangria’s Wine Tasting Dinner
November 17, 2010 6-8PM

Five-course dinner with complementing wines presented by Capital Wine & Spirits

Menu

Goat Cheese and Herb Souffle
Baby Arugula salad with Roasted Pears, Candied Walnuts and Strawberry Vinaigrette
Lemon Sorbet Seared Duck Breast with Sundried Cherries and Port wine reduction served with Parsnip puree
Scallop and Crab Au gratin En Croute with Chive oil and Red pepper coulis with Asparagus bundle
Pumpkin Crème Brulee

$65 per person
Prepayment and reservations by 11/8/10
Call 610-432-3280 ask for Danielle, or email at dfarole@sangriaallentown.com

Indian food right across the Delaware

2010-10-25T14:23:00.003-04:00

Props to Express-Times writer (and former Spark intern) Kelly Huth for her write-up of The Indian City Restaurant in Phillipsburg. (165 S. Main St. Indiancitynj.com — 908-859-8488.)

Lehigh Valley -- yes, P-burg, I'm including you here -- needs more Indian places. This one looks fairly typical, but there's nothing wrong with another option, especially in the eastern reaches of the region.

From Kelly's article:

Insiders eat: Vegetable Manchurian (four vegetable dumplings stir fried with fresh, hot chilies, spring onion, ginger and garlic in chef's sauce) — $4.95; Chicken Tikka Masala (boneless chicken pieces broiled in the tandoori, with cream sauce, green spices and tomatoes) — $9.95; Chicken Mango (chicken, onion, red pepper, ginger, garlic and diced mango) — $9.95; Achari Kabab (hot, spicy chicken tenders marinated in yogurt and pickled spices, baked in clay oven with jaggery) — $9.95; Malai Kofta (mixed vegetables and cottage cheese dumplings cooked in a mild butter, tomato and cream gravy) — $8.95; Goa Salmon Curry (fresh salmon, coconut and mustard seeds in a coastal curry) — $13.95; Seafood Mela (fish, prawn, scallops and calamari in a spicy curry sauce) — $14.95.

New Mexican in Allentown

2010-09-23T17:13:00.003-04:00

Here's a brief write-up from Allentown Afterthoughts about a new Mexican Restaurant in the 600 block of North 12th Street -- 12th and Allen. Thumbs up on the chicken tacos. Only 12 blocks from my house. Very doable. Look forward to trying.

Cosmopolitan in Allentown - Opening in September

2010-08-31T08:45:00.002-04:00

Megan at Lehigh Valley Transplant has been writing a thorough review of how another ambitious Allentown restaurant -- The Cosmopolitan -- is coming together for a September opening. The location on Sixth Street across from Symphony Hall promises to have a creative farm-to-table menu and outstanding wine list.

For more, read Part 1 and Part 2 of her blog posts.

Coming soon to Broad Street , Bethlehem: Hello Burrito

2010-08-30T12:42:00.003-04:00

Looks like work is progressing quickly on Hello Burrito on Broad Street between Main and New streets. Based on what I read on its Facebook page, the restaurant commissioned local artists to decorate the tables. There's a menu posted on the restaurant's website. The gang here at Spark is anxiously awaiting the chance to power down a southwest, thai, mango or Asian sesame burrito. From the looks of it, I'm guessing two weeks until opening. (The photo to the right was taken weeks ago. The Hello Burrito signage is already on the facade above the front entrance.)

Alando offers a taste of Kenya

2010-08-27T04:57:00.005-04:00

Alando Kenyan Cuisine
520 Main Street, Bethlehem
610-317-2009

For all the chains and pizza places that pop up around the Lehigh Valley, it's truly refreshing to experience something ambitious and completely different. Alando Kenyan Cuisine on Main Street in downtown Bethlehem is such a place.

The restaurant occupies the back third of Wired Cafe in the heart of the historic district. It's sparsely decorated with a smattering of African art and fairly conventional lighting, tables and chairs. Though it's a separate operation from Wired, it nonetheless needs to blend in to avoid a visual clash. (For the record, this might be the only coffee house-Kenyan combo in the world.)

I've never tried Kenyan food, so I apologize in advance for not having a point of reference. I have enjoyed Ethiopian and Senegalese cuisine before. Kenyan is more akin to Ethiopian with its heartiness and use of exotic spices. In fact, I found it even similar to Indian food, though without the heat. (View the full menu.)

To wit, we started with a lentil samosa, a deep-fried pocket of goodness and an Indian restaurant mainstay. Bits of scallions and cilantro were tucked in the golden-brown pastry. Alando's pili pili sauce -- an addictinng sweet/hot concoction available for to-go purchase -- was an ideal complement. Kenyan Bhajia (fried potato slices in a tumeric-cilantro batter) was equally delicious as an app. The potatoes were light and airy despite being fried.

We chose three entrees to split. Green Gram Grains ($9.95) -- mung beans sautéed in vegetable Masala spice, garlic, tomatoes, coconut milk and light cream -- had a wonderful balance of flavor. The coconut and cream provided a silky sauce that bound the small pieces of vegetables for easy eating.

Cardamom chicken ($13.95) -- marinated chicken with herbs, sautéed with cardamom pods, ginger, garlic, light cream and cilantro -- was my favorite. It burst with aromatic cardamom, but without overwhelming the dish. (I'm sure the cream helped temper that.) The ginger and garlic, reminiscent of Eastern dishes, melded well with the other spices and herbs. The boneless chicken breast was meaty and moist. I could eat this once a week.

Not to be overlooked, the beef short ribs ($14.99) were hearty, dense and fork-tender.
Topped with caramelized onions, tomatoes and cilantro, they arrived in a shallow pool of flavorful stew-like braising sauce. The accompanying collard greens & basmati rice were perfect sides.

Do not skip dessert. Alando offers homemade sweet potato pie with ginger ice cream. It was similar to pumpkin pie with nutmeg, cinnamon and a touch of cardamom, but with a bit less fruitiness. The ginger ice cream -- also made on the premises -- was perfect. Studded with real pieces of ginger, it complemented the texture of the pie and provided even more moistness, but without overpowering it. As it slowly melted, it retained its form and texture without turning watery, a sign of quality and high fat content. Mmmmm.

Our service was decent. It took a while upon being seated to get water and menus, but after that it was pleasant and frequent. No issues.

My only criticism: it may be quicker to fly to Kenya than to wait for the restaurant's flash-based website to load. Ugh.

Others I have spoken with have had equally excellent experiences at Alando. Let me know if you do, too.

Two new spots

2010-08-19T08:48:00.003-04:00

As reported by Kelly Federico in today's Morning Call Go Guide, Loan's Authentic Vietnamese Bistro is slated to open September 9 in the Allentown Farmers Market near Dan's Bar-B-Que.

The nine-item menu will feature dishes including goi cuon, (spring rolls with pork, shrimp, mint, cilantro and vermicelli rolled up in rice paper with a peanut dipping sauce), banh mi xiu mai, (pork ball and shrimp steamed with vegetables served with French bread), canh ga chien nuoc mam (chicken wings with fish sauce) and bun thit nuong (grilled pork with mint, lemongrass, vermicelli and vegetables).

Ethnic and eclectic eateries in the Allentown Farmer's Market have had mixed success. Foods of the Mediterranean (east side) and Sweets Grill and More (Mexican) have been mainstays. And for good reasons: quality and authenticity. A Cuban place across from Dan's BBQ, Fan's Sushi and Balasia (vegan) didn't last as long, though the owner of Fan's needed to move for family reasons. I'll do my part to support Loan's and will report on the food.

Additionally, tonight I have the privilege to check out Sangria, the new restaurant at 9th and Hamilton in the Butz building in downtown Allentown. I don't know what to expect: there's no website on the invitation to preview the menu, no Twitter presence or Facebook page, very little publicity. I did sneak a peak at the interior on Monday. It design looks striking and modern. Looking forward to checking it out. Allentown needs another nice restaurant downtown to complement Bay Leaf, Robata and Made in Brazil. With the BrewWorks doing well and Island in the Sun (Jamaican) moving in 1/2 block to the West, the city is developing a nice core of diverse restaurants.

Authentic Russian dinners -- at a deli? Da!

2010-08-11T04:37:00.014-04:00

Black Forest Deli -- Kiev Lehigh Valley night
745 7th Avenue
Bethlehem, PA
(610) 865-3036

(Photos by Megan Duerring, @meganallyn)

As I've learned time and again, it's often the most unassuming restaurants that serve up some of the most delicious, authentic ethnic food. Such is the case at the curiously-named Black Forest Deli, which every Thursday evening offers a reservation-only five-course Russian dinner (I counted six) that combines homemade delicacies in the most friendly, gracious family-style atmosphere you'll ever encounter.

For their weekly Kiev Lehigh Valley meal, the mother-daughter duo of Milana and Vica Shparber run a long, red-draped table through the middle of their modest establishment and have up to 16 guests sit communally. There are no intimate tables for two: this is an event to be savored with others.

Welcoming us to the table were plates of deviled eggs spiked with bits of marinated mushrooms as well as bite-sized open-face sardine-tomato-cucumber sandwiches. Both were sprinkled liberally with fresh dill, which could easily be called the national herb of Russia. The sardine sandwich was especially delightful, with the pungency of the sardine balanced by the freshness of the vegetables.

Next, Vica brought bowls of hearty Russian borsch, a traditional cabbage and beet soup served with a dollop of sour cream and topped with fresh dill. (Aside: have you ever tasted a bad "dollop" of anything? Dollops rock.) She accompanied it with a "pirozhok" -- a meat pie with a flaky, ethereal pastry. Often available for lunch, the borscht is a revelation as it alternates among tart, sour and silky flavors. It's a meal in itself with the pirozkok.

Course two (three to my count) consisted of a variety of Russian salads served family style. Olivie (a Russian style potato salad) and a crab salad stuffed in a tomato were excellent, but the two standouts were diced chicken liver with marinated onions/peppers (nice interplay of bitter and sweet) and chicken salad with grated horseradish and chopped apples in a yogurt/lemon dressing. I found myself sampling seconds of the latter two.

In the middle of the salad course, Vica appeared with a tray of shot glasses filled with vodka. How much more traditional can you get? I partook and helped a friend finish hers. Bonus.

Course three: pierogies stuffed with either potato filling or saurkraut. They arrived in a deep bowl topped with fried onions and sour cream. Simply put, these were the best pierogies I've ever had. The toothsome pasta shells glimmered with melted butter. I'd never had them filled with saurkraut, something that I had missed out on for the first 42 years of my life. The kraut provided a welcome flavor punch to the typically starchy dish. And with the sour cream -- divine.

The main course afforded a choice of halupkis (stuffed cabbage with rice and meat in a tomato broth) served with mashed potatoes or beef strogonoff served with kasha, or buckwheat. Both were accompanied by a tomato/cucumber/onion & dill salad. While the sturdy halupkis were straightforward and good, the strogonoff was the winner here. Ultra-tender chunks of beef (which had been braising since 10 a.m. according to Vica) amid a delicate, creamy sauce immediately erased any visions of the Hamberger Helper style of the dish familiar to college students. This was the real deal.

The final dessert course -- in addition to plates of fresh fruit -- consisted of blintzes filled with homemade farmers cheese and topped with sauteed berries and ice cream. They served it with compote, an all-natural fruit and berry juice that in Russia is served for dessert and during the day instead of soda.

Between the incredible food, vodka, communal atmosphere and gracious hospitality of Vica, the three-hour meal was one of my most enjoyable food experiences of the year. I can't recommend the evening enough. And I suggest you follow the effervescent Vica on Twitter (@blackforestdeli and @kievLV) and on Facebook. She and the Black Forest Deli are a true delight. (I'll save the phenomenal lunch selections for a different post.) Another delight is the price: only $35 a person.

In fact, the meal compelled me to return to food blogging. I will have reports on Alando (Kenyan) and Mexico Lindo (Mexican, duh) soon. And I'm scheduled to attend the preview of Sangria in Allentown next Thursday. It's comforting to see so much activity on the ethnic restaurant scene in the Valley. I'm happy to be back.

Indian in Lower Mac?

2010-01-18T09:15:00.001-05:00

LV Lisa reports:
Lower Macungie Township now has an Indian restaurant! Kebab and Curry is next to Radio Shack in the Walmart mall on Mill Creek. I can't wait to give it a try, their food looks great.

Hope to try it myself. Thanks for the update.

Friendly people, outstanding Caribbean/Mexican food at General Zapata

2009-11-10T18:25:00.003-05:00

General Zapata
15 E. 4th Street, South Side Bethlehem
(610) 625-0090

Heading back to Spark after an early-evening meeting, I decided to veer left at the Minsi Trail bridge onto Fourth Street and head through the South Side of Bethlehem to see if any new restaurants had opened. After all, I had 2-3 hours of work ahead of me. Doing it on an empty stomach was unthinkable.

I immediately noticed General Zapata on the north side of the street near Nawab. I peered in a large picture window and saw a handful of tables and tasteful décor. The temptation of Caribbean-Mexican fusion food was too compelling to pass up. The BYOB restaurant has 8 tables and seating for 25. An earthy brown-orange color scheme exuded warmth, as did the wood floors and wall shelves displaying pottery and ornate brown bottles.

Caribbean-Mexican fusion is somewhat of a misnomer. General Zapata offers Caribbean/Hispanic food and Mexican food, not a combination. (Though a “jerk chicken taco” experiment would be worth trying.) Nine combination platters offer a selection of traditional Hispanic foods, such as fried pork chops, onion steak, roast pork and fried chicken, each served with rice and beans or pigeon peas and small side salad.

I made roast pork adobo at home the previous weekend, so to compare I landed on the roast pork with plantains ($10.50). An ample (but not overwhelming) serving of gently seasoned pulled pork was fork tender and moist, yet not mushy. (My roast at home was very good, but I’m obviously lacking some technique.) A mound of rice with beans in a bowl was straightforward and satisfying. The plantains (tostones) were ethereal – some of the best I’ve had. They overcame plantains’ typical starchiness and greasiness and instead provided a crisp-tender and light accompaniment for the meat and rice. Served with a creamy mojito dipping sauce, they were sublime.

General Zapata’s menu exhorts: “Try our famous hot sauce.” I complied, pouring copious amounts on my rice and beans. Good move. The tomato-based sauce had spicy notes and a citrusy, piquant finish that would have been ideal on Mexican food.

Speaking of which, the a la carte menu has nearly two dozen Americanized Mexican options, including tacos, burritos, flautas, tostadas and enchiladas. Considering that the owner, Rick Garcia, cooked at the one-time Mexican standby Zapata’s (hence the name), the Mexican foods are likely to be delicious. Garcia claimed that people routinely drive in from New Jersey for a bag of tacos. (They can save money on Taco Tuesday, when a second taco is only $1.)

A post-meal conversation with Garcia established that General Zapata’s is worth supporting. He and his family cook all the food from scratch and from traditional recipes. They use quality ingredients and supplement the herbs and spices with ample quantities of old-fashioned pride – something you cannot get from a homogenous chain. Restaurants like General Zapata add true flavor to the Lehigh Valley’s dining scene.

Read another review of General Zapata from Susan Gottshall at The Morning Call.

Mediterranean in Tilghman Square

2009-10-27T12:41:00.003-04:00

Thanks to Tyrone Richardson at The Morning Call for an update on Lazeez a new Mediterranean restaurant scheduled to open mid-November in Tilghman Square, just off 309 and Tilghman (near Josh Early Candy). The scanned menu looks relatively straightforward -- nothing breakthrough.

Also, I'll be posting a review soon of my excellent experience last night at General Zapata, a Mexican-Caribbean place on the South Side of Bethlehem. (In the meantime, it wouldn't be a mistake to try Taco Tuesday there tonight -- buy one taco, get the second taco for $1.)

Sushi in Nazareth

2009-10-05T23:33:00.002-04:00

I don't make it up to Nazareth much at all, so I'm going to share verbatim a comment from Mrs. Right about a new sushi place:

There's a new sushi restaurant that opened in downtown Nazareth (Hana Sushi at 6 Belvedere St.) We tried the lunch special and were pleasantly surprised. We brought friends for dinner another night and were impressed - the selections were fresh, creative and delicious. It's a small place, but beautifully designed and decorated. The owners have clearly put an effort into this little venture and we'd love to see it thrive. We're glad to have found such a little gem so close to home. We'll definitely return, and soon.

Newly opened Thai take out, South Bethlehem

2009-10-05T13:34:00.003-04:00

Charly's Thai Restaurant
610-866-3490

Two guys from Spark stumbled across Charly's today on the Southside of Bethlehem on 4th Street between the core business district and the Sands. Evidently, it officially opened about 15 minutes before they stopped in. They were customers #3 and #4. It's take-out only. They gave thumbs up to the chicken satay and fried rice. (I sampled the peanut sauce -- a bit thin, but pleasantly sweet and delicious.) Other offerings include spring rolls, pad Thai (of course), tom yum kai (Thai soup), grilled chicken and Thai chicken salad.

According to the menu, buy more than $10 in food and you get soup for free. That might be challenge: entree prices range from $2.95 to $5.95.

It's near the Valet Tailors, which happens to be one of the best tailors in the region. Time to take some clothes in for altering.

Brazilian concept coming to 9th/Hamilton

2009-09-16T15:22:00.006-04:00

From a news release from the City of Allentown. Hope they're able to make it a step up from Rios in Nazareth, which I find acceptable but not as impressive as Brazilian concepts I've been to in Philly and Atlanta.

Brazilian Steakhouse Coming to Allentown

A Brazilian steakhouse called “Made in Brazil” is coming to the Holiday Inn in Center City Allentown. Mayor Ed Pawlowski, hotel manager Cathy Minnich and restaurateurs João Roquetti, Antonio DeMattos and Eduardo Welter made the announcement this morning at the Holiday Inn.

“These three gentlemen reside in Bethlehem, Easton and Nazareth and I couldn’t be more elated that they have chosen Allentown as the place for their business venture,” said Pawlowski. “I can’t wait for them to get started.” The target opening date for the 200 seat restaurant is October 31.

According to Minnich, the restaurant opening is a partnership of the hotel and the restaurateurs. They will share the kitchen, with Made in Brazil operating the room service, lunch, dinner and lounge business and the hotel doing the meeting and banquet business.

“We’re here to stay,” said Welter. “We want to be the best restaurant in the Lehigh Valley. We will serve flavorful, abundant meals while providing friendly and tremendous service.”

According to Roquetti, the restaurant will offer Brazilian-style barbecued meats and service. “Waiters will travel the room carving meat from their skewers and placing it onto guests’ plates. Our guests will not leave hungry.”

The menu will include steaks, chicken, seafood and other top Brazilian dishes. There will be a wide selection of international wines, typical Brazilian drinks and other alcoholic beverages.

The city is assisting this development with a Restaurant Row Incentive Grant of $37,000 and a Citywide Business Opportunity Loan of $40,000. The funds come from the repayment of loans made to previous recipients. The Restaurant Row Incentive Program is administered by the city with the goal of encouraging the development of full service dining restaurants serving lunch and dinner in the downtown business district.

Roquetti says of the 25,000 restaurants in Pennsylvania, only nine are Brazilian, with the majority located in Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. “City staff has been very helpful,” said Roquetti. “They introduced us to the owners of the hotel. We quickly realized that this is the place to be. We intend to attract residents and visitors from across the Lehigh Valley to this location.”

The restaurant announcement or grand opening is the third in the city in the last 20 days.

--30--

Four Aces? I'm game

2009-09-02T12:12:00.003-04:00

Four Aces Grill
13th and Hamilton, Allentown

As noted in an earlier post, Four Aces is now open in Allentown. I heard from several sources -- and read in Morning Call articles and ads -- that it served a variety of food including offbeat meats like ostrich and bison. Coincidentally, I asked Beyond Scrapple readers two years ago if they knew of anything more exotic than goat in the Lehigh Valley. I guess Four Aces has the response, albeit delayed.

My family and I ended up there after unsuccessful stops at Morton's (in the former LoBaido's on 8th/Gordon, closed for family emergency) and Black Orchid (moved to East Side, I've been told). As an aside, I was distressed to see Morton's signage touting "food with a Southern flare." I hope that the misspelling is not a warning signal, so to speak.

Back to Four Aces. The restaurant was about half full on a Saturday evening at 6:30. We selected a table on the awning-covered front deck -- a nice, sheltered vantage point to enjoy the cool summer breeze and watch the incoming storm roll in. The decor is tasteful; mostly muted, earth tones with assorted artwork on the walls -- definitely a step up from the Rock Around The Clock Cafe that previously inhabited the space.

The eclectic menu featured a wide variety of dishes of various persuasions. It's tough to characterize the cuisine by ethnicity. Instead, I'd call it "adventurous." That's the theme and it works.

We started with three appetizers: calamari, jalepeno poppers and salmon cakes. The calamari were deep fried, but were served with a curry-like dip that was a nice complement for the squid. The petite salmon cakes (3) were sauteed perfectly to golden brown and finished with sauce that I cannot recall now other than it was a perfect complement. The poppers were homemade -- not the institutional variety filled with cheese product. Fresh, spicy jalepenos were stuffed with tiny shrimp, andouille sausage and cheddar cheese, then breaded, deep fried and served with a creamy lime sauce. Luckily, they were too spicy for my wife; I got to enjoy three of them.

For entrees, I could not resist trying the ostrich burger. Seasoned with Moroccan spices, studded with pine nuts and topped with an apricot, it was one of the most original burgers I've tasted. (For the record, I place the taste of ostrich somewhere between turkey and ground beef.) The handcut fries were a perfect accompaniment. The other members of my family ordered caesar salads topped with chicken, which arrived with the head of romaine intact and freshly grilled. The kids found the charring a bit odd, but overcame their concern once they tasted it. Nicely done.

We ordered a creme brulee for dessert and found it average.

The service was a bit slow and inefficient. (For example, the waitress brought us waters two at a time rather than using a small tray to carry four. Too many trips back and forth.) I think they're still working out the kinks. But it's BYO, so if you're looking to relax a bit and enjoy conversation with friends, bring a bottle of wine to share and don't rush it. It's worth the wait.

I spoke to the owner, who said he's looking for sources for kangaroo and alligator. I like where he's heading. He's taking a concept that no one else is trying and he's doing it well. I wish him the best.

7th Street restaurant news

2009-08-28T13:35:00.003-04:00

According to the Seventh Street Now blog, the former LoBaido's at 8th and Liberty has been transformed into Morton's, which I heard has a soul food/Southern cuisine. (Anyone been there?) Also, La Mexicana Grille is undergoing a facade facelift, which I witnessed during my trip there this week. (Somehow, I avoided getting paint chips in my hair.) It's good to see the 7th Street corridor gradually being transformed into an ethnic restaurant row with several establishments -- including Winston's (Jamaican) and Casa Latina (Hispanic) -- offering outdoor dining.

Authentic Mexican options abound in Allentown

2009-08-27T13:18:00.005-04:00

With the Mexican chain "On The Border" about to open in Allentown's new Airport Square center, I thought it would be an ideal time to review existing options for Mexican food in the city. After all, chain restaurants are OK if you like consistency and predictability, but authentic restaurants are a bit more of an adventure.

La Mexicana Grille -- 7th and Gordon
Just stopped in this week for lunch. Plain but non-cliche decor. Food was outstanding. I had a torta, the traditional Mexican sandwich with lettuce, pico de gallo and avocado slices. One half faetured marinated sirlion steak (surprisingly tender) and on the other half, chorizo (just enough kick.) At $4.50, it's probably one of the best sandwich deals in town. My friend Rob had a chicken enchilada with mole. We're both big mole fans. (To you noobs, that's pronounced mole-ay and has nothing to do with birthmarks.) La Mexicana's mole was well balanced with a deep chocolate aroma that belied its suprising lightness. Dinners are equally impressive. Then again, their poblano sweet potatoes make anything beside it even better.

La Placita Mexico -- 12th and Turner
My favorite place for tacos. Choose from chicken, beef or chorizo. They'll heat it up on a griddle, sprinkle it with fresh cilantro and quesa fresca (and minced onions, I think?) and put it between a double layer of corn tortillas. They also have a selection of soups and other small plate items ideal for lunch or sharing. Our friend who grew up in Mexico for 18 years of his life says it's his favorite place in the Lehigh Valley. How can you go wrong with that recommendation?

Amigo Mia -- 545 Cleveland St (near Good Shepherd)
The original Mexican in the city -- and to many, still the reigning champ. It's open only Wednesday and Friday evenings, I believe. It's a small place -- a reconfigured row home. I've had exceptional bean burritos and some of the best refried beans anywhere. Fare is standard Mexican -- don't expect anything exotic or fusion. But if you're eating more authentic Mexican food, you're probably south of the Rio Grande. Note: they don't accept credit cards. And I think they have a small bar, so you can get your favorite Mexican beer or cocktail. (The two other locations above are BYOB.)

In the end, it depends on your risk-reward tolerance. Service in the smaller restaurants can be spotty. Menus have misspellings. The decor didn't start on the drawing board of an interior designer. Parking for all three is on-street. But for a real experience, they're tough to beat. For me, it's all part of the experience.

Quick bites

2009-08-07T09:04:00.002-04:00

Two items of note:
1. Replying to a previous post about LoBaidos, Amanda shared that LoBaidos and the chef Bernie moved to an industrial park across from St. Lukes North. His new place is called Bernardo's. Anyone been?
2. I was notified last night that Four Aces on 13th and Hamilton had a soft opening. I was unable to make it, but hope to stop by soon to try the various exotic meats and other foods. If you want to try it and save some cash (who doesn't these days?), I found a $3 coupon on line.

Happy eating this weekend. I'll be doing a little damage at Musikfest, where the ethnic food selection is a little disappointing. Best bet for authentic food: Holy Infancy near Plaza Tropical for outstanding Portuguese.

Bizarre meats coming to Allentown

2009-07-30T12:16:00.002-04:00

Like ostrich, alligator and bison? Or at least curious to try? You won't have to go far in about a month. A new restaurant called Four Aces (I hope I heard that right) is slated to move into the former Rock Around the Clock Diner on 13th and Hamilton. That's all I know at this point. But here's hoping for some elk and wild boar. Aside: Mr Bill's deli at the Allentown Farmers Market carries a selection of exotic meats in the open case freezer to the right of the sausage counter. I've seen several styles of ducks, quail, pheasant, squab, boar and ostrich. I'll have to pull a random meat out of the case the next time I'm feeling inventive.

New restaurant in downtown Allentown

2009-07-29T13:36:00.002-04:00

News today from Allentown is that the owner of the River Grille is going to open a restaurant in the first floor of the Butz Building, 9th and Hamilton. Cuisine will be Portuguese-Mediterranean -- probably similar to his other Easton property, Valencia. (Thanks @matuerk via Twitter.)

Thai coming to downtown Emmaus?

2009-07-28T09:52:00.003-04:00

In case you don't read the comments, Amy from Emmaus shared this with the editorial staff of beyondscrapple.com:

We live in Emmaus, and did you know that Phenom, the Thai restaurant in Easton, is going to open a restaurant on Main Street in Emmaus? Look on the left side at: http://www.phenomthai.com/. There is a banner hanging on the building - they are taking over the old India Spice at the corner of Main and 2nd Street. My husband heard that they are trying to open within the month.

I've heard mostly positive things about Phenom. I'm happy to hear they're coming to this side of the Valley.

About Tika's

2009-07-27T22:47:00.004-04:00

A few of you have asked me about Tika's, the new restaurant that replaced Tortilla Flat on the corner of Main and Market streets in downtown Bethlehem. Unfortunately, I don't know what to think.

First, the good: the owners seem to be very nice people -- personable, dedicated, enthusiastic. They invested a lot of time and money into the property. The interior has been redone in a orange/green motif. They shifted the bar to the south wall to make the entire floorspace a bit more open. And they added extra tables outside for al fresco dining.

Now the bad: I can't describe for you what type of food they serve. It's all over the place. There are a couple of everyday Mexican dishes -- burritos, quesadillas. There are sandwiches, including a Cuban sandwich. There are salads, though nothing very notable or creative. And there are expensive entrees like strip steak and surf & turf. I had lunch there four weeks ago. Honestly, I can't remember what I had (some kind of sandwich?), though I know it was not bad. It was decent, but unremarkable.

It's a problem when someone asks you, "What type of food do they have?" and you can't answer. They have a little bit of everything, but without the widespread selection of a diner. I don't know about you, but there are times when I'm fixing for a certain type of cuisine: Thai, Middle Eastern, Italian, Hispanic. Tika's falls short in this measure. They would be better off with a distinct menu theme that is underserved in the Lehigh Valley. Maybe Latin fusion. Maybe jazzed up comfort food. Maybe Spanish. Or authentic Greek.

That said, I wish them well. As noted, the owners, Bill and Tika, seem like genuinely good folk. They have an important corner on Main Street in Bethlehem, which needs to keep its momentum. Any thoughts from anyone else who's been?

Sorry. But I'm back and loving Petra.

2009-07-17T12:37:00.004-04:00

Thank you all for your patience with my lack of blogging. Things have been busy here at Spark (no complaints about that), and I've been attending to some other needs. I haven't been eating out as much either, mostly because of time constraints. After all, the ethnic places I chronicle on Beyond Scrapple don't require a CEO's salary. So thanks for sticking with me.

I ventured today to Petra, the new Mediterranean restaurant on Broad Street close to Apollo Grill in Bethlehem. It was one of my best lunches in a long, long time.

Petra opened about two months ago in a former coffee shop that was headed nowhere from the day it opened. (Too many coffee shops in one downtown. We're not Seattle.) The decor is pleasant -- cream colored walls, wood floors, simple artwork. In many ways, it's a reflection of a cuisine that combines fresh straighforward ingredients in a delicious and healthful manner.

I was surprised to find a lunch buffet. I'd never seen one in a Mediterranean restaurant. The various dips/spreads lured me in; the rest of the dishes sold it. For $9, I can't remember a better buffet at any location. All items were freshly homemade.

In addition to standard hummus and a surprisingly light baba ganouj, Petra had a muhamara dip: a combination of walnuts, pomegranates, molasses, bread crumbs, olive oil, roasted red peppers and spices. Phenomenal -- it was at once hearty and sweet with incredible balance. I could have made a meal out of that alone.

The tabbouleh was fresh and tangy, though a little light on the bulgur in my opinion -- more of a parsley/mint salad with diced tomatoes. (That didn't stop me from having two small servings, though.) Hot dishes included couscous, which in this case refers to a stewed Moroccan vegetable dish (carrots, sweet potatoes, others), rather than the grain-size pasta. (Petra had that, too, and it was light and a tad buttery. Mmmmm.) A side dish of peas and diced carrots with small pieces of beef in a beef broth was rich and outstanding. It could have been an entree. And a rice/lentil combination featured an ideal balance of texture and flavor, not to mention the healthy rice-legume partnership.

I'll repeat: this is one of the best $9 buffets you'll find. Prompt, friendly service with good food at a fair price. I'm fortunate to have it less than three blocks from my desk.

Thanks once again to all who have continued following and commenting. I promise to make it out more often and continue blogging.

Mediterranean in downtown Bethlehem

2009-04-09T17:55:00.002-04:00

Petra, a new Mediterranean restaurant, is scheduled to open soon in downtown Bethlehem. It's just east of Apollo. I'll try to pop by and get a look at the interior and menu before the end of the week.

Fire at Rios

2009-04-09T17:54:00.001-04:00

A fire April 9 at Rios, the Brazilian restaurant in Nazareth, will close the establishment for 1-2 weeks according to the Express-Times.

News about former Tortilla Flat

2009-03-12T09:02:00.003-04:00

I met the owner of the restaurant location that used to be Tortilla Flat on Main and Market in Bethlehem. He's the former owner of the Lantern Restaurant in Bethlehem (now the Cuban-themed Nueva Lanterna). He said he plans to open a family restaurant -- kind of like a diner, but one step above. Homemade soups, comfort foods (Yankee pot roast, anyone?) and hearty sandwiches. A liquor license is in the window, so I assume he's keeping the bar. He's had contractors in the building for the past several weeks. I would expect it to open in April or May.

Hidden Italian gem

2009-03-01T20:55:00.002-05:00

Our friends the Youngs let us know about an Italian restaurant called La Campagna just east of Quakertown and Richlandtown in Upper Bucks County. They say it's a family-run operation, with the proprietor acting as manager and chef, mother "Nonna" making fresh pasta and other family members waiting tables. Check out the website for more. And the two reviews to date are stellar. It's BYO. And I have a nice bottle of Sangiovese in the wine rack. Mmmm.

Black Orchid open and staying put

2009-02-11T13:00:00.002-05:00

I just spoke to Cynthia at the Black Orchid. She confirmed that she's open Wednesday through Sunday for business. (She didn't remember why she would have been closed the Friday night we ventured to her location.) She also denied any rumors that she is moving into LoBaido's location on 8th/Liberty.

Thai Thai II - Bethlehem

2009-02-10T05:10:00.003-05:00

The ever-talented Capri posted a thorough review of her recent experience at Thai Thai II in Bethlehem. (What, no tempting food photography, Capri?) I'm heading there myself in two weeks with friends, so we'll see how I make out. I've stopped once for a quick dinner and enjoyed a simple yet flavorful vegetable stir fry -- nicely spicy with mixed vegetables cooked to a perfect crisp-tender. However, I asked if I could replace the white rice with brown rice and was told it would cost $3. I persisted for an entire minute -- I didn't want a separate side of brown rice, I just wanted to swap out the white rice with brown. $3. I declined. I don't know if it was a language barrier or lack of accommodation. Either way, I was a bit bummed, as I'm a brown rice fan. That doesn't mean I won't ask again in two weeks.

Chinese at Asia

2009-02-06T20:52:00.003-05:00

I joined my buddy, Rob, for lunch at Asia this week. It's the Chinese/Asian restaurant on Susquehanna Street between Allentown and Fountain Hill. Susan Gottshall, intrepid reviewer for The Morning Call, listed Asia as one of her top experiences in 2008. Rob and I were generally satisfied. The menu was fairly extensive -- typical Chinese dishes along with several that had more creative flair.

We tried two selections from the "Asia Signature Bowls" lunch menu. Rob had Thai peanut chicken. The chicken pieces were as tender as I've ever had. The peanut sauce was mild -- only a mild nut taste. The veggies were plump and succulent. Meanwhile, I ordered the pine nuts shrimp and scallops. The seafood was cooked perfectly -- toothsome, not dry. The sauce (ranked one chili pepper) had only a mild kick. It was a red garlic-ginger glaze.

We both ordered our dishes atop brown rice. (Gotta avoid the afternoon glycemic coma you get with white rice.) However, we both found the sauces drowned the rice. Next time, I will recommend requesting the rice on the side to control the distribution of the sauce. Way too much -- it overpowered the nuttiness of the brown rice and probably added several hundred more calories to each dish.

Winston's warms with Jamaican fare

2009-02-04T20:37:00.003-05:00

Winston’s
619 N. Seventh St. (between Tilghman and Allen)
Allentown

When it’s frigid outside, there’s nothing like warm comfort food to drive away the winter doldrums. And when the cuisine is Jamaican, there’s definite potential for a double wallop. Winston’s – a new restaurant along the 7th Street corridor – it not let us down.

The clean, sparsely decorated restaurant features a large deli case upon entering, which displays a selection of pre-packaged Jamaican foods – breads, rolls and so on. The day’s menu is on the wall behind the counter. It varies from day to day (based on what’s made in the kitchen); it primarily consists of meats cooked long and slow amid tropically spiced broths. How can one go wrong?

Our family of four enjoyed a selection of items. My wife gravitated to the oxtail – tender and meaty with a dense, fulfilling sauce thickened from hours of simmering. My son selected brown stew chicken, bone-in pieces that were surprisingly rich and sumptuous. My daughter sampled a chicken soup that was thick, hearty and enjoyable.

I tried the escovietch fish. It was served whole - with head and tail. I found it crunchy and a bit overcooked – a little dry on the ends, but meaty in the middle. The rice and peas were fantastic; with the oxtail gravy, they were sublime.

As a bonus, Winston gave us some of Saturday’s jerk chicken as a sample. It was tender and spicy, but not overly hot. It provided a final bit of warmth to a wonderful evening.

Total cost was $40 -- an incredible bargain. We left a $10 tip, as the service was exceptionally pleasant and thorough. We also left with two lunches worth of extra food. Places like this that make Allentown a great city to live in. I can travel 17 blocks east and get a taste of the tropics with incredible authentic service.

Black Orchid closed?

2009-01-23T10:49:00.004-05:00

The Southern/soul food restaurant, Black Orchid, which moved into Louie’s on 12th and Liberty, appears to be closed. We tried to stop in last Friday night. The doors were locked, the lights were off and there was no note on the door. Later in the week, my wife stopped by and it was still closed. I know a lot of restaurants will close for a week or two in January for vacation; it’s a traditionally slow period for most eateries.

Anyone know anything different?

LoBaido's closing this Saturday

2009-01-21T09:44:00.001-05:00

An Allentown institution, LoBaido's, is closing this Saturday night, January 24. I've eaten there several times and always found the Italian food a step up from the expected, ordinary fare. I don't know the reason behind the closing; if I learn, I will share. Sorry to see it go -- perhaps it will resurface elsewhere in Allentown a la Louie's. Here's hoping we get another quality ethnic restaurant in its place.

Restaurant action - Main St. Bethlehem

2009-01-15T14:49:00.002-05:00

I apologize for the delay in notification, but Tortilla Flat -- the Mexican restaurant on Main/Market in downtown Bethlehem -- closed in the late fall. However, we've seen activity inside and rumor is that another Mexican joint will take its place. Maybe that's bad mojo -- same concept, same location. (Let's hope the new restaurateur has better luck keeping customers from getting food poisoning.)

Mmmm tacos at La Lupita

2009-01-09T17:09:00.000-05:00

LaLupita - 4th/New Streets, South Side Bethlehem
(610) 868-5733

While I've had a unremarkable experience at La Lupita in the past, I decided to give it another try recently. (It's close to Spark; what can I say?) I landed on a Mexican staple: tacos. The restaurant offers three tacos with different meats for about $5.50. The beef tongue was tender and flavorful. The crumbled chorizo had tang and a bit of heat. And the marinated pork was similarly delicious. All tacos came with a "double walled" tortilla to hold in the meat (and accompanying grease). A bit of shredded lettuce, onion and cilantro rounded out each taco. Overall, I was pleasantly surprised with the freshness and quality of the tacos. They were closer in taste and composition to La Placida Mexico (Allentown) than other Mexican restaurants I've been to. The green sauce (pictured in the small plastic container) was rather bland; it didn't add much to the dish. While the tacos were good, the furnishings were less so; one booth bench had a slice in the cushion that would have swallowed a small child.

Jambalaya recipe

2008-12-31T09:27:00.002-05:00

Well, I used up an ample allotment of my 15 minutes of fame by virtue of appearing in today's edition of The Morning Call to share my spicy jambalaya recipe. It's simple and packed with flavor. Hope you enjoy it.

Coming soon: reports on La Lupita (Mexican) and Nueva Lanterna (Cuban).

Quick home cooking note: If you like Mexican hot sauces, I highly recommend Bufalo chipotle hot sauce. It's got loads of flavor, depth and complexity as well as a heck of a kick. I thought it was no longer available until I saw it last week at, of all places, the Weis in Cedar Crest Plaza. I picked up three bottles. Try it -- you won't be disappointed.

Happy new year's to all. And happy eating.

New Jamaican in Allentown

2008-12-15T14:36:00.000-05:00

Downtown Allentown resident Jeff Pooley reports that Winston’s, a new Jamaican restaurant, has opened at 619 N. 7th St. in Allentown. He said he’s eaten there once and was impressed. (Thanks for the note, Jeff. I’ll have to give it a try the next time I’m near the 7^th Street corridor.)

New website for Kim's Kitchen

2008-12-12T08:06:00.003-05:00

Kim’s Kitchen on Route 309 – the only known Korean restaurant in the Lehigh Valley, has a new website: http://www.kimskitchen309.com. The restaurant touts Korean, Italian and American cuisine (check out the menu), but it’s the Korean specialties that make Kim’s stand out.

Thai in downtown Bethlehem

2008-12-09T05:44:00.001-05:00

The Thai restaurant I mentioned in August appears close to opening. A sign proclaiming the name as "Thai Thai" has been hung, tables are inside and lights are on. I can't quite figure out "Thai Thai" as a name -- is that to differentiate it from "Vietnamese Thai" or "Italian Thai?" At least it's not a pun like "Thai One On" or "Fit To Be Thai-ed." More to come.

Mexican creativity at Cactus Blue

2008-12-09T05:18:00.005-05:00

Cactus Blue
2915 Schoenersville Rd # 4
Bethlehem, PA
(610) 814-3000

In reader polls and magazine lists, Cactus Blue is routinely recognized as one of the top Mexican restaurants in the Lehigh Valley. I've stopped in for lunch several times and have been satisfied. A recent dinner there confirmed its stature in my mind. One of my dinner companions knows the management, so rather than scanning the menu, we told our waitress to bring us three dishes that typified the restaurant's cuisine.

Before that, we dipped into chips and salsa, my personal food weakness. The salsa was obviously homemade and deliciously fresh. (I can only imagine how amazing it would be with seasonal tomatoes rather than the pink ones available in December.)

Here's a quick recap of our dishes:
Shrimp tacos (left): served "blue" style in flour tortillas with guacamole, lettuce, cheese (real queso fresca, not shredded cheddar) and cilantro. Sublime. A perfect marriage of simple ingredients.
Chile relleno: A meaty polblano lightly battered and fried golden brown, topped with salsa verde. Again, queso fresca stuffed in the pepper was true to the "fresca" part of the name.
Chicken encebollado (right): If Mexicans served stir-fry, this is what it would look like. Large chunks of tender chicken amid rajas (peppers and onions), pico de gallo and herbs. The flavors balanced nicely and complemented each other well.

The menu included expected Mexican dishes like burritos, flautas, chimichangas and tacos. But as usual, it's the unconventional dishes that demonstrate the restaurant's quality and creativity.

The service and atmosphere were commendable as well. Overall highly recommended.

In search of unique pizza

2008-09-28T16:45:00.003-04:00

I had the pleasure of visiting Lilly's Pizza in Raleigh, N.C., about two weeks ago. Go to the website and click on "Toppings." They have 77 (!) selections, ranging from porcini mushroom oil to goat cheese to smoked oysters to atomic tofu and baby corn. The place was jammed with families, couples and college students (it's close to NC State).

Where's the imagination of Lehigh Valley pizzerias? On rare occasion, you can find artichoke hearts, cilantro, meatballs and maybe barbecued chicken. How tough would it be to offer a little variety? I guarantee you: a place like Lilly's in the Lehigh Valley would clean up.

BBQ in the LV

2008-09-28T15:57:00.004-04:00

If asked to nominate a genre of food to typify "American Ethnic," I'd quickly raise two greasy hands for barbecue. There's nothing more comforting and authentic than meat cooked low and slow over smoky hardwood.

My travels have taken me to barbecue hotbeds like North Carolina and Texas. And during the last three years, I've spent more time with my Weber smoker than I have with many members of my family. (Disclaimer: much of my family is 400 miles away in Ohio; the smoker is 40 feet away in my garage.) So I know what to look and taste for in barbecue: tender and moist meat, a pink smoke ring near the meat's exterior and "bark" that concentrates the flavor of the rub.

I've visited three BBQ establishments near my Allentown home. Here are my rankings in order of preference:

1. Grumpy's Barbecue Roadhouse. Top of the heap. I went with my wife last weekend. The pork ribs were phenomenal -- fall-off-the-bone delicious. The pulled pork was moist and imbued with smoky goodness. Shredded beef brisket was at once hearty and toothsome. And the meaty smoked chicken leg was fork-tender; I hardly needed a knife. Grumpy's coleslaw -- a traditional BBQ side -- had only a light creamy sauce covering the cabbage and veggies, as opposed to other joints that drown the chopped salad. Atmosphere was a B+: the dining room almost seemed a little too nice with striped wall paper. And I'm a fan of paper towel rolls at the table, which were missing. Grumpy's has a pile of napkins. Overall, top-quality BBQ -- even if this were 500 miles south.

2. CC's Wooden Grill in Kutztown. I noticed this place when heading toward La Cocina, an excellent Mexican restaurant on West Main Street. I stopped for lunch, so a full platter wasn't an option. I opted for a pulled pork sandwich ($5.25) with "nasty" sauce, a vinegary concoction. The meat was tender and gently smoked, yet only slightly above average. I selected a side of roasted sweet potatoes ($3.75) that, despite being a bit oily, were refreshingly different. A half rack of ribs is $14.75; there's no brisket. Homey decor and friendly service made this a worthwhile stop between Reading and Allentown. (Note: cash only and BYOB.)

3. Conway's BBQ. In a word: ugh. I had a pulled pork sandwich last year that tasted like it was cooked in a crockpot then kept in a steamer. Virtually devoid of smoky flavor, it was watery and plain. The strip-mall location on Tilghman Street (Kuhnsville) had almost no personality. I see Conway's plans to open locations in the Carolina's, Georgia and Florida. Given the discriminating BBQ lovers down south, I don't like Conway's prospects.

I have yet to sample Dickey's (new chain outlet on Schoenersville Road) or Crazy Jake's north of Easton. I've heard decent things about both.

Go get your pork on!

Quick Italian Bite

2008-09-26T15:30:00.000-04:00

I've only been to Sette Luna in Easton three times, but each visit makes me want to go back for more food more often. My most recent experience bolstered my opinion that this is one of the best authentic Italian restaurants in the region.

We started with an outstanding cheese plate, which my former cheesemonger friend, Michele, deemed excellent. The tre colore (three color) salad of Belgian endive, raddicchio and arugula had the bitterness of the tender greens offset with olive oil and lemon with pepper and sprinkles of sea salt. "Delicious" doesn't do it justice. My entree, a simple pasta with bolognese sauce, demonstrated the kitchen's ability to make even the most traditional dish sublime. The meat sauce was thick and rich (obviously from hours of gentle simmering) and studded with diced aromatic vegetables.

I must add that our waitress was affable, knowledgeable and attentive. You come to a restaurant like Sette Luna expecting good service, which makes exceptional service that much more impressive.

I could eat here once a week and not tire of the experience.

Ethnic food fest in Allentown

2008-09-01T22:27:00.003-04:00

Celebrate Allentown
September 13, noon-8 p.m.
800 and 900 blocks of Hamilton

I've always said (to anyone willing to listen) that what the Lehigh Valley needs is a real food festival -- our unique version of Taste of Chicago. After all, the people in this area love to eat. And in the 15 years their tastes have moved, well, beyond scrapple.

Finally, it appears that someone has taken the lead. The City of Allentown will host Celebrate Allentown on September 13. The event will feature ethnic food, lively music, interactive fun, performances, cooking demos and more along a two-block area downtown. This is a good start. Ultimately, I could envision a Mayfair-sized ethnic food festival in Cedar Beach. Think of all the ethnic cuisines in the city that could be represented: Thai, Vietnamese, Mexican, Latin, Chinese, Turkish, Greek, Middle Eastern, Italian, Japanese -- heck, even some Pennsylvania Dutch.

What a wonderful way to celebrate the diversity of Allentown. Unfortunately, I will not be able to attend. If anyone is able to go, I'd welcome a guest blogger here to share the experience with others.

(Thanks to Vanessa at The After Work Chronicles for passing this along.)

Mexican near PPL

2008-09-01T21:52:00.003-04:00

La Tortilla
33 N. 9th St., Allentown

A couple of months ago, if someone had told you about a Mexican Restaurant adjacent to PPL in downtown Allentown, you probably would have thought of Johnny Manana's, the much-ballyhooed (but soon to be shuttered) establishment along Hamilton. However, a new, authentic Mexican restaurant has opened in the former 9th Street Loop cafe location: La Tortilla.

After a recent lunch visit with my fellow ethnic food adventurer, Rob, I've concluded that La Tortilla is big on quality, but small on variety. The menu features rather conventional fare: tacos, burritos, enchiladas, tortas, tostadas and a handful of entrees.

But this is no Taco Bell. The homemade flavor starts immediately with chips and freshly made salsa -- nicely tangy with finely chopped tomatoes and fresh cliantro. Outstanding. My chicken taco had seasoned chunks of succulent chicken with a bit of onion and cilantro and a light sauce. Having recently visited San Diego, I had to try La Tortilla's take on the fish taco -- lightly breaded and fried chunks of white fish with cabbage and a creamy tartar sauce. Definitely California-worthy. The accompanying beans (toothsome) and rice (flavorful and fluffy) rounded out the meal.

Judging by the rash of PPLers filing in, La Tortilla has quickly garnered a reputation for quality food and good service. Its hours (Mon-Fri 7-7 and Sat 12-8, closed Sun) are more conducive to a quick lunch than a long dinner.

Thanks for your patience

2008-08-11T07:04:00.003-04:00

All,

I'm back. And will be blogging more often. I appreciate the prodding to get back writing. Honestly, I flattered that so many of you find my blog useful. Thanks for your comments -- and keep on eating!

Thai in Bethlehem?

2008-08-11T07:01:00.003-04:00

Signs that read "Coming soon: The best Thai restaurant" appear in the front windows of what used to be the downtown Bethlehem office of the Lehigh Valley Chamber of Commerce on Main Street. That would be a nice addition to a slowly but continually expanding restaurant scene downtown. I'll ask around in the coming weeks to see what I can learn.

Quantity (and decent quality) at Rios

2008-08-09T06:39:00.002-04:00

Rios Brazilian Steak House
127 S. Broad St.
Nazareth PA
610-614-1018
(No known website)

Rios is the Lehigh Valley's first iteration of the "Brazilian Steak House" concept, wherein skewers of meat, meat and more meat are seasoned, fire-grilled on a rotisserie, then served tableside by bandana-clad "gauchos" who use a foot-long knife to slice off as little or as much meat as you want. Essentially, it's a meat smorgasbord that comes to you. The most successful manifestation of the churrasco concept nationwide is Fogo de Chao, which has locations in many big cities, including Philadelphia.

Rios stays true to the concept. It offers 10-12 (I lost count) different types of meat, including from picanha (tender sirloin), tenderloin, beef ribs, pork ribs, chicken drumsticks, leg of lamb, chicken hearts (a surprising treat) and sausages. As noted, most are nicely seasoned to bring out the full flavor of the meat. Most everything was fairly tender, though I had a couple of chewy bites that made for some extra jaw work. Simply put: if you're a carnivore, this is your meatopia.

However, I found other aspects of the restaurant lacking. The salad bar, wedged in between two dining areas, was average at best. (It's a sight to behold at Fogo de Chao.) It had a limited selection of specialty salads along with mixed greens and toppings comparable to an ordinary salad bar. Also, the atmosphere and decor is unremarkable. We ate in the large, open area in the back of the restaurant. It looked like a converted sports bar without the memorabilia and televisions. Finally, I found the wine selection somewhat limited. And the wine I did order was served in a small, narrow glass more befitting of a diner than a nice restaurant.

Still, you're coming here for the meat. And at $21.95 a person, it's a lot cheaper than driving to Philly or New York. If you enjoy Rios, make sure to hit one of the big-city Brazilian restaurants. You'll see how it's done to perfection -- and realize that Rios isn't too far away.

Still eating, posts coming

2008-04-14T15:54:00.002-04:00

Faithful readers and eaters,

I know I've been delinquent in posting reviews. (One commenter even assumed I was no longer blogging. Ouch.) Rest assured: I'm still out adventuring and trying new places. In the coming days, I will be recounting my experiences at the following establishments:
- Casa Latina, Allentown
- The Other Fish, Bethlehem (Round 2)
- Caribe Del Sol, Bethlehem
- Musashi, Allentown

Thanks for your patience!

Mixed experience at Spice India

2008-02-18T22:09:00.000-05:00

Thanks to all who have posted comments about their dining experience at India Spice. I recently visited the restaurant to sample the buffet, a staple of most everyday Indian restaurants. Suffice it to say, my experience mirrored the mixed collective opinion of posters.

First, the good. The buffet included a chick pea salad that was outstanding with finely chopped vegetables and cilantro amid a lemony dressing. It was fresh and worthy of seconds. A spinach dish akin to Palak Paneer was savory and dense. Two types of rice (basmati and lemon) and two styles of dal provided ample opportunity for experimentation. Large metal skillets contained sizzling tandoori chicken and vegetarian dish. Both were average, though the presentation was impressive.

Now the bad: comments about undercooked chicken were validated with the aloo kashmir. I tried a piece of the dish and found it incredibly and unnaturally tender—to the point I could not distinguish the meat as chicken. I noticed pink remaining in the meat. Other chicken in the chafing dish was also pink. Meanwhile, an eggplant entrée was covered with a prominent, unappetizing layer of grease — which is too bad, as Indian cuisine can do remarkable things with eggplant.

In the end, there’s no excuse for undercooking chicken — especially when it is visibly pink in the serving dish. No number of positives can make up for this transgression. If you choose to go, you would be wise to tell your waiter to make sure the chef cooks the chicken. (Excuse me, can you please tell the kitchen staff not to give me food poisoning?)

A final note: the place was jammed on a Friday. A line formed at the front door. People waited up to 15 minutes for a table. Let’s hope the management and kitchen staff start embracing proper food preparation techniques so we can keep another Indian option available in the Lehigh Valley.

Excellent Thai-inspired soup

2008-01-15T22:01:00.000-05:00

The Cafe in Bethlehem (221 W. Broad St.) has been serving up Thai-inspired food (and outstanding desserts) for years. Though there are many excellent curry, rice and noodle dishes on the menu in addition to a wide range of creative salads, my favorite selection is the big bowl of soup for about $9. It features simmering homemade chicken broth loaded with rice noodles, fresh basil leaves, julienned carrots, broccoli, chilis, mushrooms, scallions and your choice of shrimp, chicken or pork. (Shrimp is pictured at the right.) It is consistently a flavorful, clean-tasting, light yet satisfying concoction that touches on Thai food's trademark sweet, hot, sour and salty flavors. It's a great way to warm up on a chilly day without the heft of a stewed dish or cream-based soup. Enjoy.

Side dishes

2008-01-15T20:49:00.000-05:00

1. The new Jamaican restaurant on 7th St in Allentown has opened. It's called Nixx's Jamaican & Soul Food Restaurant. The new Seventh Street Now blog has a nice write-up.
2. Kim from Kim's Kitchen in Center Valley reports that she's been cooking up more Korean food -- including seaweed salad, a kim chee-style tofu dish (with light, delicate tofu), a bean sprout salad and fish dishes (like tilapia) -- at the request of customers who have found her via this blog. She said to call in advance if you have a crowd (610-282-5857) and she'll tell you what she has or can make. Keep cooking, Kim!

Spice India information

2008-01-07T19:44:00.000-05:00

Spice India
(610) 432-0980

Thanks to all for scouting Spice India, which indeed is in Whitehall. If you're heading north on MacArthur, turn right onto Schadt Ave. (before you get to Staples), go about 500 feet, then turn left into 2407 Mickley Ave. (Not Mickley Road.) I had a brief conversation with the owner. Evidently, the restaurant opened December 18. He relocated to this area from Parsippany, N.J., where he also operated an Indian restaurant. He and his staff appeared gracious, friendly and helpful.

Spice India has a lunch buffet. Weekdays, $7.95; weekends, $10.95. The full menu appears slightly more extensive than Raj Palace or Nawab, with more vegetarian options and several goat entrees. Here it is:

New blog domain name

2008-01-06T22:43:00.000-05:00

You can now find this blog at www.beyondscrapple.com in addition to its original address, lveats.blogspot.com. No other changes -- same blogger, same mission, same sporadic posts.

Quick update

2008-01-06T13:06:00.001-05:00

Now that the holidays are over, I will start exploring and posting again. In the next two weeks, I have visits planned to Tokyo Do in Bethlehem, the new Louie's in Allentown and Rincón Salvadoreño in Allentown. Please check back and look for my reports.

Also, thank you all for the wealth of comments and suggestions on this blog in 2007. Comments about your experiences at the restaurants I review are not only welcome, they're cherished. It's tough to get a true picture of a restaurant with only one meal. I provide glimpses in my blog; you help to broaden the perspective with your comments. Again, many thanks.

And now for some notes, or "side dishes:"

I noticed a new Caribbean/Soul Food restaurant slated to open on 7th St. in Allentown between Linden and Turner -- close to the new bus terminal. I run by the location every Thursday morning, so I'll notify readers when it's open.
Johnny Manana's is open in Allentown, 9th and Hamilton (in the new PPL building). Damien Brown's West End Neighborhood blog has a nice write up.
Long overdue stop: Amigo Mio in Allentown. I haven't been there in 9-10 years. I was reminded about it when I was perusing New York Times readers' nominations of best restaurants. One of the commenters from Brooklyn nominated Amigo Mio in Allentown alongside all of NYC's world-class establishments. Sometimes we forget the treasures we have in our own backyard.
I've been told about a new Indian restaurant on MacArthur Road close to the Wal-Mart/Dick's/Burlington Coat Factory shopping center. Has anyone been there or seen it?
Don Pablo's on MacArthur Road has closed. Big loss.

Delcious food, mon, at Island in the Sun

2007-11-23T08:23:00.000-05:00

Island in the Sun
1236 MacArthur Road
(610) 435-4347

Need an escape from winter's low, dark clouds and bone-chilling cold? Try Jamaica--via MacArthur Road. Open since April, Island in the Sun serves authentic Jamaican food that will warm your soul like the tropical island sun toasts your skin.

As you can see from the image, the restaurant is in a non-descript retail strip on MacArthur road just south of Home Depot. A sign on the front door asks that guests not use profanity. It's a perplexing but wholly acceptable request made difficult by the quality of the food, which could easily evoke a phrase punctuated with a four-letter word like, "****, this is good!"

My culinary compatriot, Rob, joined me in trying two of the more unusual dishes: oxtail and curry goat. Both were simmered extensively, making the meats tender and savory. The oxtail was especially dark and flavor-packed. The goat awakened our taste buds with ample (but not overdone) curry. Side dishes were outstanding. A warm cabbage salad was crisp and toothsome. Plaintains -- fried to a perfect golden brown -- were expectedly starchy and delicious with hot sauce. The "best supporting side dish" award, however, went to the rice and peas, which were flavored with coconut milk and allspice for a sublime Jamaican side.

We also sampled a beef patty, the Jamiacan version of a turnover. A lightly browned crust encased a mildly spiced, almost pureed beef mixture. It had an odd texture, but alluringly subtle taste.

Of course, the menu includes expected Jamaican dishes like escoveitch chicken and fish, jerk chicken, and brown stew chicken and fish. Cow foot, manish water (goat soup) and cowfoot soup are intriguing options that beckon for trial next time. (I get the feeling that not all entrees are available every day.) Prices are reasonable. Most lunches are $5.95 - $7.50; dinners about $2 more. The decor is spartan, but acceptable. After all, you're not going for a visual experience. You can close your eyes and imagine sandy beaches, clear Caribbean surf and palm fronds swaying in the tropical breeze. Add the aroma and flavor of island food and you have a mini-vacation to Jamaica. Everyting is irie, mon!

Korean at Kim's Kitchen

2007-11-15T21:57:00.000-05:00

Kim's Deli / Kim's Kitchen

5842 Main St
Center Valley, PA 18034

(610) 282-5857

I've written before about Kim's Deli (the sign says Kim's Kitchen), which occupies an inconspicuous building on northbound Route 309 across from the entrance to Southern Lehigh High School. Upon walking in, you might think Kim's is a typical sandwich joint. The deli case includes cole slaw, macaroni salad and potato salad. The special board lists a Reuben and turkey sandwich. Racks of chips and bottles of soda line the back of the entry area.

However, the real deal is the Korean food in on the second shelf of the case and back in Kim's kitchen. My visit with a friend tonight started with a nice conversation with the vivacious, diminutive Kim. We didn't look at a menu. We told her to just feed us Korean food. She readily complied.

The meal started with a thick, curried soup-like dish replete with diced carrots and other veggies. It was pleasantly spicy but not overly hot. Kim followed that with Kim Chee soup, which incorporated chunks of cabbage swimming in a broth. The typically pungent, fermentated Kim Chee was diluted just enough to impart the flavor of the signature Korean dish. Minced chili peppers throughout the bowl awakened the palate just enough, though the soup might be judged a bit salty by people not comfortable with assertive flavors.

Kim moved to solid foods: Korean dumplings. Stuffed with a piece of pork and nicely pan-fried, they were served with a chili sauce that added punch. Again, delicious. The entree plate had Korean barbecued pork tenderloin and chicken, sticky brown rice (with a fish sauce?) and colorful stir-fried veggies -- an unexpectedly exquisite plate for a "deli." Everything was cooked to perfection. The dish was a study in balancing texture: the silky barbecued meat, the almost glutinous rice and the toothsome veggies. We devoured it all. Fresh pineapple and a dish of walnuts and yogurt-covered raisins completed the meal with a subtle touch of sweetness.

I'm not sure if this is a typical meal that Kim serves, so I'm not going to say what I was charged. (It could easily change the next time I show up.) I will say that it was probably the best restaurant bargain I've had in years -- a fulfilling, authentic meal for a fraction of what you'd pay at a predictable American chain.

Be advised: Kim's closes at 7:30 on weeknights. And it's BYOB. But to my knowledge, it's the only Korean game in town. Whether you want to have some homecooked Korean food or experiment with something new, you can't do much better than Kim's.

Reviews forthcoming

2007-11-15T12:59:00.001-05:00

To prepare my alimentary canal for the upcoming Thanksgiving Day feast, I plan to visit and review three restaurants in the next week:
1. Kim's Deli (Korean on 309 near Southern Lehigh)
2. White Orchids (Thai in the Promenade Shops)
3. Island in the Sun (Jamaican on MacArthur Road)

Also, I intend to report on an "American" ethnic food: barbecue. We've had several barbecue joints open in the Lehigh Valley in the past five years, including Grumpy's, Conway's and another place north of Easton (sorry, the name escapes me). We'll see how the Lehigh Valley matches up against Allen & Son in Chapel Hill, N.C. and Sonny Bryan's near Love Field in Dallas, Texas.

More soul food

2007-09-25T12:55:00.000-04:00

Kurt Blumenau from The Morning Call notified me that Jaffe's Soul Food opened in the former Southampton Fish and Chips restaurant in Easton. I'm not exactly sure where this is, so I'd welcome word from any feet on the Easton streets. Similarly, I noticed that the fish and chips place (also Southampton?) on E. Fourth Street, Southside Bethlehem (just east of Nawab) appeared closed when I walked by two weeks ago. Anyone know the skinny?

MIA, but still eating

2007-09-23T22:05:00.000-04:00

Dear loyal readers, foodies and friends,

Despite my prolonged absence from posting, I've still been monitoring and sampling the Lehigh Valley's ethnic food scene. I hope you enjoy these four new posts:

A rant about the Readers' Choice Awards in The Morning Call
Assorted news and notes from the restaurant scene
Reviews of Francisco's and Cali Burrito.

As always, thanks for your patience and your comments. Keep on eating!

(Stupid) Readers' Choice

2007-09-23T21:33:00.000-04:00

The Morning Call's "2007 Readers' Choice" insert in Sunday's paper again showed how ignorant and unsophisticated the Lehigh Valley can be despite the progress in the area's restaurant scene. Among the top vote-getters:

Dessert: Friendly's. As if it's tough to scoop ice cream, douse it with high-fructose-corn-syrup-ladened toppings and candy chunks, then cover it in whipped cream. Everything else there is massed produced. Real original.
Ethnic Cuisine: Don Pablo's. It's a chain, people. It's as American as McDonald's. Runner up: Wegman's. An "A" for breadth, a "C+" for quality. And could The Morning Call list a more ambiguous category anyway?
Indian Restaurant, One of the best: Aladdin. It's not even Indian! It's Middle Eastern. Duh! This is the second year in a row that Aladdin has won this dubious honor despite serving no tandoori, vindaloo, or tikka masala!
Mexican Restaurant (local): Don Pablo's. See two entries up. To me, local means locally owned, not the fact that it's in Whitehall. With all the good authentic options (Mexicana Grill, Blue Cactus, Amigo Mio, La Lupita and others), it's a damn shame that Don Pablo's is even considered.
Salads: Applebee's. Maybe Applebee's should win this category in every major market it operates. Pistachio would have been a logical choice here -- best salad selection in the Valley.
Vegetarian Cuisine, One of the best: Olive Garden. Granted, there aren't a lot of vegetarian options since The Green Cafe closed. Why even list Olive Garden when any other Italian place would qualify and serve better, healthier food?

Between the idiotic voters, the lack of editorial oversight/veto and the fact that The Morning Call sells ads that surround the voting forms, The Readers' Choice Awards has virtually no credibility.

Ethnic restaurant news

2007-09-23T21:14:00.000-04:00

Here are some updates on various restaurant locations in the Lehigh Valley.

The Rock, which I wrote about here, appears to be closed. A note on the door thanks patrons for their support, but offers no guidance as to the establishment's future.
I've been told that the Southside Bethlehem site formerly inhabited by The Dancing Fish has been reincarnated as a new sushi restaurant. My informant (thanks, Tracey!) said the decor was updated and the sushi was average -- nothing creative like Sogo or Robata. Still, it's worth a lunchtime jaunt across the Fahy Bridge to check out.
An Irish restaurant, Molly Brannigans , is slated to open on the ground level of Farr's, Broad and New in Bethlehem. (Read Matt Assad's story here.) Molly's is an Erie-based chain. The Bethlehem location will be its sixth. Get ready for some corned beef boil and fisherman's pie! (Hey, everything tastes good with a Guinness.)

Salvadorian in Bethlehem

2007-09-23T20:57:00.000-04:00

Francisco's Salvadoreno Restaurant
100 East Broad Street, Bethlehem
(610) 866-3556

With the demise of the Kim Chee Express on the corner of Broad and Center streets, downtown Bethlehem has been down a quality ethnic eatery. The most recent iteration at this venue, Francisco's, brings a new genre of food in the Lehigh Valley -- Salvadorian. As you might expect from the Central American location of San Salvador, Salvadorian cuisine has much in common with the Latin-style restaurants that have become prominent in our region.

My recent lunchtime visit to Franscisco's was acceptable, but not great. The owner and staff were friendly and attentive. I ordered fish filet with rice red beans. The white fish, lightly floured and sauteed, was slightly overcooked and had lost some of its flakiness. The rice and means more than compensated. I believe the rice was spiked with butter, though my server claimed it was not. (I know butter when I taste it, though!) And the beans were tender and tasty, served amid a succulent sauce that complemented the rice.

Other menu items appear appetizing. A traditional breakfast (two eggs, mixed rice/beans, plaintain, sour cream, grilled beef and tortillas) would likely satisfy my hunger for days. Several dishes feature pupusas, a stuffed, handmade tortilla that's as Salvadorian as the hot dog is American. Several steak, shrimp and pork options round out the entrees, as well as Mexican-style items like burritos and fajitas.

On an encouraging note: the restaurant filled to about 2/3 of its 10-12 table capacity during my visit. It's good to see people supporting locally owned ethnic eateries. I hope to support Francisco's again and try something that will be worthy of praise.

Goodness wrapped in a tortilla

2007-09-23T20:35:00.000-04:00

Cali Burrito (website)
3104 Hamilton Blvd., Allentown
(610) 351-1791

The online Urban Dictionary refers to a Cali Burrito as a "delicious and mythical burrito found in Mexican eateries." After two experiences at this new Allentown establishment, I can attest that the fare is anything but mythical and certainly qualifies as delicious. (Perhaps transcendent?)

The ambiance of Cali Burrito calls to mind the casual and laid-back attitude of the Golden State's surfing scene. (In fact, the take out menu features a stylized burrito coolly navigating a wave.) There's no pretense here; just good food served quickly.

I've tried the Cambria (grilled veggies, black beans, brown rice, guac and cheese) and the Old Monterey (chicken black beans, rice, cheese and guac.) Both were chock full of goodness -- an entire meal wrapped in a steamed tortilla. The Humboldt, another vegetarian option, has smoked tofu. Steak, pork and ground beef round out the available meats. Accompaniments -- free with any burrito or taco -- include pico de gallo, lettuce, cabbage, jalepenos, cilantro and fire roasted ranchero sauce. In addition, three homemade salsas were available: tomatillo, tomato and a wonderful mango salsa. Homemade chips were toothsome and fulfilling.

Also worth noting is the restaurant's focus on sustainability. They claim to use environmentally friendly sugar cane plates and "plasticware," local organic produce in season and organic coffee. As if I needed something more to like.

Sogo - finally!

2007-08-09T21:17:00.000-04:00

Sogo
237 Northampton St.
Easton, PA
(610) 250-0198

Thank you to everyone who suggested that I visit Sogo in Easton. My wife and I went on a recent Friday and had a wonderful experience.

Sogo is the newest arrival in a burgeoning restaurant scene in downtown Easton. It's not exploding by any means, but if you look at the recent additions (River Grille, Sette Luna, Ocean , with others on the way) it has more growth than other Valley downtowns. Sogo is not only new -- it's hip and metropolitan. Its decor could be transplanted into Philly or NYC without much of a stretch. Friday night was busy, but we got a table without reservations and without a wait.

We started with seaweed salad to see how Sogo would treat this conventional dish. The answer: pretty well. The tender seaweed was topped with a mellow sesame dressing that was not overpowering like others I've had. It was the right size, texture and flavor for a salad.

For an entree, I selected two sushi rolls: a hard rock roll (soft shell crab and veggies) and tuna roll topped with caviar. Prepared by a bandana-clad trio of Asian sushi chefs, both were fresh and among the best sushi rolls I've ever had. (Other rolls beckoned, auguring a future visit.) My wife ordered a thai-inspired spicy chicken and shrimp dish. With tender shrimp and a light coconut sauce, the entree was tangy and satisfying, though nothing too different than you could get in an everyday Thai place.

A quick note on the bathroom right off the bar: you won't find a more decorative floor anywhere in the Lehigh Valley. An intricate mosaic tile pattern stretches from wall to wall. With cool fixtures and accessories, it's worth drinking extra water to ensure a visit. But beware: there are only two unisex bathrooms. I waited both times I ventured there.

Colombian in Fountain Hill

2007-08-02T20:43:00.000-04:00

Cuquita
960-B Broadway
Bethlehem, PA 18015

One of the best things about eating at small, family-owned ethnic restaurants is that they tend to draw a crowd that's in the know. (Conversely, the regulars at TGIFridays can probably dierct you to every Ruby Tuesday and Applebee's in a 40-mile radius.) On a recent visit to Tulum, a kindred foodie recommended a new Colombian restaurant in Fountain Hill, about a mile from five points (412/378). How could I pass up a tip like that?

Cuquita is the last store in an old-school strip along Broadway. I was perplexed as I approached it: a neon "pizza" sign shone in the window above the door. I saw South American decor inside, so I figured the sign was a mere remnant from the previous establishment. I was mostly right.

Cuquita does specialize in Colombian food, which is similar to other Latin-style restaurants I've visited. Colombian food tends to be a bit more adventurous with slightly more emphasis on seafood. Entrees on the menu ranged from grilled steaks, pork and chicken to braised meats that require long cooks to break down connective tissue. I chose to start with corn pie. The only other corn pie I've eaten was at Walp's, that long-ago demolished epicenter of Dutch food. Cuquita's version resembled a deep fritter, topped with a thick chunk of American cheese. It was dense and flavorful, but too much to handle for one person.

As an entree, I ordered the Creole tongue -- a braised beef tongue topped with onions and peppers. (I'm not sure of the Creole-Colombian connection. That's worth asking about next time.) The tongue was tender and flavorful, complemented nicely by the stewed veggies atop. Succulent red beans and yellow rice rounded out the meal, which would have been tough to complete even at dinner. My guest had a delightful chicken kabob topped with a piquant cilantro sauce -- a much lighter choice than my appetizer + entree.

Cuquita has bountiful dessert options. I asked the owner (a pleasant, helpful man) which selection I should try. He pointed me to an empanania (forgive my spelling), a bread-like pocket filled with guava jam and cream cheese. It was not as assertively sugary as most American desserts -- it was subtle and balanced.

And about the pizza sign: the owner still makes pizza in the Magic Chef oven left behind by the previous owner. He said regulars come in and request it, so he's not making any changes. My guess is that it won't take long for some of them to convert over to the Colombian food. It's a treat.

Asian at Eastern Dragon

2007-07-23T22:06:00.000-04:00

Eastern Dragon
7001 Route 309 (Fairmount Village Shopping Center)
Coopersburg, PA
(610) 282-8988

I've purposely avoided reviewing Chinese restaurants. As noted in an early post, there are more U.S. Chinese restaurants than McDonald’s, Wendy’s, and Burger Kings combined. (Both categories have health issues. Two cups of General Tso's chicken packs 830 calories and 37 fat grams, which rivals Wendy's new "Baconator" sandwich.)

Nonetheless, when my friend John invited me to Eastern Dragon with his hearty recommendation, I couldn't pass it up. Like most Chinese restaurants in the Lehigh Valley, it's in a strip mall. But the similarities end there. The interior is tastefully decorated; the garish, cliche Chinese wall hangings aren't prominent. (However, "Chinese zodiac calendar" placemats mark each seat.) Cove lighting in the ceiling provides a pleasant indirect glow. A sushi bar is at the rear.

The menu has all the typical American Chinese dishes: ____ in garlic sauce, ____ with broccoli, kung pao ______, szechwan ______. (Fill in the blank, of course, with your protein of choice.) However, several gourmet specialties caught my eye. I ordered the Shrimp Amazing, which had tender large shrimp stir fried with peppers in a thick, spicy red sauce. John ordered shredded beef, which featured thinly sliced beef with julienned veggies, seasoned with a kick supplied by peppers and chilies. We split a house lo mein, which had chicken, shrimp and pork. All three dishes were big on flavor, freshly prepared, and low on grease. Brown rice was available instead of the typical white. Each grain was cooked to perfection: toothsome and a tad chewy, not at all sticky. (Few Chinese restaurants have brown rice, which is more flavorful and healthier than white rice and exponentially better than fried rice.)

Other enticing items included Ma-La Seafood with Basil (shrimp/scallops with a hot basil sauce), Walnut Honey Shrimp, New Zealand Mussels (with ma-la sauce or black bean sauce), and two roast duck dishes. The sushi bar options are fairly typical -- rolls and hand rolls, sushi and sashimi. Considering the care put into the Chinese food, I'd wager the sushi is good or better.

Eastern Dragon is BYOB. There's a state store in the strip mall if you care for wine. However, I don't recall there being a beer store, so you'll have to bring your own Kirin or other favorite Asian beer.

Go Fish?

2007-07-16T22:05:00.000-04:00

The Other Fish
59 E Broad St., Bethlehem
(484) 821-1370

When The Dancing Fish opened in a narrow space on E. 3rd Street on the South Side of Bethlehem, it was one of only a handful of places to get sushi in the Lehigh Valley. Diners more knowledgeable than I rated it average to good.

Evidently, the operation moved north to E. Broad Street and reincarnated as The Other Fish. Situated in the end-of-row space formerly occupied by Mr. V's Blues Cafe and the venerable Hack's, The Other Fish has limited room inside: only four two-seat tables and one five top in the front. The sushi bar seats about nine. The interior is fairly non-descript, featuring dark green paint throughout and decorative window treatments at the front. The open-air kitchen and sushi prep area are visible from anywhere in the cozy interior. There are several picnic tables outside for al fresco dining when the weather accommodates.

As for the food, I wasn't impressed. I ordered a relatively simple sushi lunch and steamed dumpling appetizer. The dumplings must have been pre-steamed; I watched them get reheated in a microwave. Perhaps it was my perception, but they didn't seem as fresh or flavorful as other dumplings I've had.

The sushi lunch had tuna, salmon, eel, mackerel and one other white fish, accompanied by either a tuna roll or California roll. (I opted for the latter.) Although the sushi tasted fresh, the fish was sliced thinly and unevenly. Similarly, the vinegar rice was shaped irregularly and small. (So much for the Japanese focus on presentation.) The California roll seemed meager and haphazardly constructed. Again, taste was not an issue -- just preparation and presentation. For $18 total, I expected more.

However, I owe The Other Fish another chance. Other dishes (especially the teriyaki steak) looked appetizing. And the sushi menu has combinations I've not seen elsewhere: The Kill Bill (shrimp tempura, eel and crab topped with tobiko), Mr. Haas (shrimp and shiitake and avocado, deep fried) and Wayno (shrimp and avocado with seared tuna, wasabi roe, jalapeno and crunch), among more than two dozen others including some "Dancing Fish Favorite" carryovers. Next time I'll err on the side of adventure and sample some rolls.

La Placita update -- Morning Call article

2007-07-16T08:03:00.000-04:00

La Placita (12th/Turner in Allentown) has been fully restored after a fire. Jeanne Bonner's article in today's Morning Call features an interview the owners about their recent ordeal, plus delves into the history of this downtown, family-owned eatery. La Placita is one of the most authentic Mexican restaurants in the entire Lehigh Valley. I'm glad it's back -- and I know I'm not the only one. (Thanks, Jeanne, for bringing us this story.)

Three new establishments

2007-07-12T05:32:00.001-04:00

Before talking about three new places I've seen during the past couple of weeks, I owe my loyal readers an apology for being away so long. (Too long.) Between a length family vacation and the harried pace at Spark before and after the time off, I'm finally getting the time to tend to important matters again. (By the way, if you're ever fortunate enough to be in charming city of Charleston, S.C., you simply must find time to eat at Jestine's Kitchen for incredible soul food. The pecan whiting, collard greens and butter beans are out of this world. The atmosphere is friendly and authentic.)

OK, back to those three new places that are on my target list. I've just noticed or heard about them recently. I have not stepped inside. (I'd welcome comments from anyone who has.)

Since I mentioned soul food, it's only appropriate to start with Southern Kitchen. It's on 4th Street in Allentown about one block south of Central Catholic High School. It appears to occupy the end of a series of row homes. I have a penchant for the comforting, simple preparation and presentation of soul food. Devoid of pretentiousness or gourmet influences, it is there to satisfy hunger and reconnect you to the simple side of life. My expectations are set high; here's hoping Southern Kitchen can meet them.

Thanks to Kurt Blumenau at The Morning Call for sending me a note about The Sun, which he covered in his July 4 Retail Watch column. Kurt reports that The Sun is on MacArthur Road just south of Home Depot. The Jamaican menu includes oxtail stew, jerk chicken and several preparations of snapper. I imagine it's BYO, so I may have to bring a couple Red Stripe beers for the entire effect. (Political note: please contact your state senator and tell him/her to support the bill that would permit the sale of six packs in beverage stores. This state's liquor laws are so antiquated and backward.)

Finally, I noticed a restaurant called Tokyo Do on Easton Avenue in Bethlehem about 1/2 mile east of the Stefko Blvd. intersection. The sign read sushi and Japanese cuisine. I was unable to tell whether the place has the pseudo-Japanese "hibachi" style entertainment-dining that has become all to common in the Lehigh Valley. Five years ago, Robata in downtown Allentown owned the genre. Now there must be 7-8 different places: A-1 in South Mall, Teppan on Cedar Crest/Hamilton, Ichiban (I think) on Catasauqua Road -- the others are escaping me now. My kids enjoy the knife-wielding chefs, onion volcano and shrimp toss, all which become cliche after the second time you've witnessed them. The only redeeming factor is the ability to place one's sake either on or adjacent to the heated stir-fry table, thus maintaining the sake's warmth. Hot sake makes life itself more tolerable.

New Italian on Main Street Bethlehem

2007-06-11T21:35:00.000-04:00

After several months of renovating the former "Friends Cafe" at 548 Main Street in Bethlehem, Mama Nina Focacceria has opened. (Thank goodness, as Friends was a sad, sad excuse for a deli and a Main Street storefront.) Mama Nina's interior features color murals and rustic decor evoking an obvious Italian theme. The menu appeared typical for a small Italian joint: pizzas, hoagies, pasta, appetizers. However, I spent a couple minutes talking with the enthusiastic owner. He said he uses only fresh ingredients -- no mushrooms or tomatoes from a can -- everything delivered fresh daily and prepped on site. (I glanced at the pizza toppings storage area and his claim appeared true.) The waitstaff seemed eager and friendly. A complete review is in the offing. In the meantime, share your experiences with me. Considering my office at Spark is right down the street, I'll have plenty of opportunity to assess Mama Nina's.

Smooth eating, sounds at Ruffino's

2007-06-06T22:24:00.000-04:00

Salvatore Ruffino's
1840 Allen Street
West End Theater District, Allentown

Italian food has become so mainstream in the United States that it's easy to forget that technically it is ethnic. Americans constantly select it as their most popular ethnic food, as they did in a 2006 study highlighted in Food Technology magazine. (An interesting tidbit: There are more U.S. Chinese restaurants than McDonald’s, Wendy’s, and Burger Kings combined. Then again, I think most zoning laws mandate that a strip mall cannot open without one.)

Ruffino's has been a stalwart member of the Italian Restaurant scene in Allentown. I usually go about once a year -- sometimes more -- as it's within walking distance from my home.

A recent meal with my family reinforced the restaurant's position as a solid, reliable choice for homemade Italian food. We started with fried calamari: nicely crispy, but not at all greasy. The accompanying tomato sauce was chunky, tangy and flavorful. Our caesar salad was average. I prefer leafy romaine, whereas Ruffino's version consisted of denser, paler romaine hearts. The dressing, served on the side, didn't taste special or homemade. The warm Parmesan-laden bread more than ameliorated for the salad's shortcomings, however. (I enjoyed three hearty slices.)

Our pizza was a delight. It had a light, slightly crisp crust. Toppings (pepperoni for the kids, basil and tomato for the half I split with my wife) were fresh and ample. The chefs used just enough cheese to cover the crust and toppings, but were careful not to pile it on and create a gloppy, greasy mess. Well done.

The restaurant offers free live entertainment on most Friday and Saturday nights. We enjoyed a gentleman singing in the style of Sinatra (so the sign promoted), though he sang mostly Neil Diamond tunes while we were there. No one seemed to mind. Between the music and the food, we'll surely be saying "Hello Again" to Ruffino's. (My apologies to Mr. Diamond.)

ACI Halal keeps getting better

2007-05-16T22:55:00.000-04:00

I've posted several reviews of ACI Halal on 2nd/Linden in Allentown (610-439-8782). Another recent visit was impressive enough to merit yet another entry, as each experience seems to best the previous.

Although the entrees, sandwiches and combination platters look appealing, I invariably migrate to the appetizers for a light lunch. "Appetizers" is a misleading term, as most of the dishes are closer to salads. I selected the tabule (tabbouleh ) and mercimek kofte (red lentils, cracked wheat, onions and spices). The tabule featured more parsley and less mint than Middle Eastern-style tabbouleh; nonetheless, an ideal amount of lemon juice provided a refreshing, piquant flavor. The mercimek kofte (the "c" is pronounced like a "j") arrived molded into five thumb-sized rolls and were dense, delicious and filling. My guest's entree came with mercimek corbasi (lentil soup) which was passed across the table to me. (Thanks, Kathleen.) This was one of the best ethnic soups I've tasted. Hearty, tangy, and chock full of lentils and other veggies, the soup was worthy of its own meal. (A bowl is only $2.25, so that might be my next visit.)

Others have reported to me that they've had equally positive experiences here. The restaurant seems busier every time I go. It's easy to see why.

Another Latin-style Comida: Las Palmas

2007-05-15T23:08:00.000-04:00

Since reporting on the closing of the Cuban Churros Cafe in December 2006, I've closely watched the property to see when another restaurant would take its place. The site's most recent iteration -- Las Palmas -- opened in April. My family and I stopped in recently for dinner.

The Latin-style comida is a burgeoning genre in Allentown -- not surprising given the growth of the Latino community. Similar restaurants include Jarabarcoa City, Tu Nueva Casa, Mambo (though the menu is more diverse) and Latin Flava (yet to visit). I've found these restaurants to feature a variety of simmering, stewed meats served with a mountain of rice and delectable beans. Las Palmas fit the mold. Overall, we found the food good, not great, but very reasonably priced.

My wife's chicken had a bit of Latin spice, but had a rather thick layer of chicken fat atop the stewing liquid. Meanwhile, my beef stew was lean, tender and tasty. My son ordered fried chicken pieces. These took a long time to arrive at the table; I think the cook needed to turn on and reheat the deep fryer. When they finally arrived, they were thickly breaded, crispy, hot and nicely seasoned. My daughter's Cuban sandwich was acceptable, but not nearly as good as The Rock or Las Palmas' predecessor, Churros Cafe. It lacked the interplay of meat, cheese and mustard that is the hallmark of the Cuban sandwich.

From a value standpoint, Las Palmas is tough to beat. We purchased the four meals mentioned above with a side of fried plantains and five drinks for $26. However, I must say that there was nothing overly impressive about Las Palmas. I guess I'd equate it to an American-style diner: you generally know what's in store the minute you walk in the door. While there's something to be said for predictability and comfort, I prefer culinary adventure.

Fire at La Placita Mexico

2007-05-09T22:51:00.000-04:00

La Placita Mexico -- one of the best authentic Mexican diners in Allentown -- was damaged in a fire earlier this week. (Thanks for the heads up, Karen!) Read The Morning Call's article for more details. I'll be running by early tomorrow morning to see how much damage is visible from the outside. I imagine it will be closed temporarily. Here's hoping the owners had adequate insurance and plan to repair the damage.

Update: I peered through the restaurant's sooty front window this morning (5/10). All the food was removed (ironically, even the barrel of chipotles!) and things looked in disarray, though the structure appeared to be intact. The only promising indication was a sign in the window for City Line Construction, a restoration service. It looks like a 4-8 week job. Let's hope it's sooner.

Caliburrito -- your thoughts?

2007-05-09T22:47:00.000-04:00

The new Caliburrito has opened on Hamilton just east of Cedar Crest Boulevard. My wife has been twice and said it's quite good. I've heard mixed reviews from others. Nothing noteworthy popped out on the menu, especially compared to Tulum. I'll head there soon for a first-person assessment. Anyone have comments in the meantime?

Vietnamese twice in a week - and the winner is?

2007-05-07T18:27:00.000-04:00

Rarely does one have the opportunity in the Lehigh Valley to enjoy Vietnamese food twice in one week. For me, it was a matter of convenience recently.

A RenewLV meeting on April 27 took me close to Pho Vung Tau, a Vietnamese restaurant operating continuously on Union Blvd. on Allentown's far east side for at least 15 years. It's been a stalwart, but my experiences have been passable -- nothing bad, but nothing great. Friday's visit was just that. I ordered a beef and carrot stew that was ideal for the cool, misty midday. The French bread promised by the menu was a halved sandwich roll charred on a grill. Ugh. What could have been a crusty, hearty complement was a tasteless, spongy eyesore.

Things were more promising at Little Saigon, which I've reviewed previously. After reviewing the extensive menu -- which features pho (beef rice noodles soup), bun (rice vermicelli) and a variety of duck, chicken, pork, beef and seafood entrees -- I decided to try the beef-pork-chicken vermicelli special, which was labeled hot and spicy -- my kind of meal. I broke a gentle sweat as ground chilis and garlic and other spices exploded onto my palate with each bite. Ultra-crispy bean sprouts with shreds of fresh herbs proved a wonderful foil for the intense flavor of the entree. The vermicelli also served to temper the heat. The portion was huge -- I could only finish about 2/3 of it. The $10.50 was a bit steep for a small restaurant, but worth it.

Rather than opting for just water or a Diet Coke, I tried a chrysanthemum tea drink. With cane sugar sweetener rather than the cloying and ubiquitous high fructose corn syrup, the tea drink was light, refreshing and unlike anything produced in the states.

Between the two, I'd spend my most of my time at Little Saigon. Pho Vung Tau, though reliable, seems stale compared to its newer counterpart.

Outstanding Tex-Mex burritos at Tulum

2007-04-30T22:13:00.000-04:00

Tulum
17 West Morton St.
Bethlehem, PA
(610) 691-8300

For the past five-plus years, Tulum has been serving up a creative selection of belly-busting burritos and other casual Tex-Mex food in this converted home just off Lehigh's Campus Square area. Here's the burrito drill: select from beef, pork, chicken or grilled veggies. They add rice, beans, pico de gallo, cheese and crema. Then choose one of seven styles:
- Beth-Mex: with smoky red sauce
- Verde: green sauce made with fresh tomatillos
- Mole: traditional almond/chocolate sauce
- Santana: sweet and new potatoes
- Mayan: grilled pineapple salsa, roasted corn, avocado (highly recommended - very, very tasty)
- Midnight Sun: breakfast-style with eggs and home fries
- Wingaritto: Like chicken wings, but wrapped in a tortilla.

The large burrito -- which has to weigh more than a pound -- is only $6.25. A smaller portion, still pleasantly filling, comes in at a reasonable $5.45. You can also get nachos, guac, quesadillas and tacos. Tulum claims to be vegetarian friendly. Several homemade hot sauces are available, including a luscious mango sauce and one called inferno (or something similar that would connote possible pain.)

A word of warning: there are only about 12 seats inside the restaurant. Picnic tables off a rear deck seat another 20-24. When I went, the tables were oozing a viscous black liquid that left marks on unsuspecting asses. Watch where you sit.

Update on former Kim Chee Express location

2007-04-25T23:03:00.001-04:00

As a previous commenter noted, Kim Chee Express on New and Broad streets in Bethlehem closed so the effusive proprietor could tend to an ill family member. It's been replaced by Cheriche's Blue Heaven, a American-Spanish deli. Lunch on Tuesday demonstrated that it's more American than Spanish. Sandwiches were typical and straightforward -- Reuben, tuna melt, etc. The special board promoted chicken enchiladas and tamales, but they were not available until dinner. My southwestern chicken wrap was quite good, though I wouldn't classify it as ethnic.

Recommendations for ethnic in Easton?

2007-04-15T22:36:00.000-04:00

My Lehigh Valley dining experiences have been clustered around Allentown and Bethlehem. That's no accident -- it's where I live and work, respectively. Other than Setta Luna, I've not written about any Easton-area restaurants. Any recommendations from the shores of the mighty Delaware? I'll scribe them onto my to-visit list and start trekking eastward. Thanks.

Dinner at Mambo

2007-04-15T21:57:00.000-04:00

My wife, after hearing me rave about Mambo, suggested that we take my daughter on Saturday night while my son was at a birthday bash. It was the first time I visited Mambo for dinner. Johansen had completed the dinner menu, so we had about 30 choices -- seafood, paella, Mexican dishes, Latin food. Because I've written about Mambo several times in the last month, I'll offer the condensed version of our meal:
- Shrimp creole: Succulent shrimp swimming in a slightly spicy tomato broth with onions and peppers. Nicely done. Didn't skimp on the shrimp. (I hate the shrimp skimp at other places)
- Crab Mambo: Delightful. Back fin crab sauteed with herbs and minced veggies. I'm guessing this would be a Latin or Mexican style dish. Regardless, this was among the most flavorful crab entrees I've had.
- Ribs: fall-off-the-bone tender from braising. (Not barbecued.)
- Rice and beans: still awesome. Ask for the homemade hot sauce. It's not too spicy; it has a round, tart flavor that balances the heat.

The restaurant was fairly crowded throughout our stay. Be patient with the service -- it seems that they're still working out some kinks. It's worth it. Did I mention the complimentary wine? Now it's no Opus One, but it helped pass the time between visits to the table. The damage for dinner: $36 before tip. (And if that isn't enough, you can save 20% with the coupon at the Our West End Neighborhood blog.)

And we followed dinner with some coffees and hot chocolate at the Hava Java -- perfect for a chilly walk home.

Mambo #2

2007-04-09T23:32:00.000-04:00

My second visit to Mambo on 19th and Allen confirmed that the food is outstanding. I selected the marinated steak this visit. It had been cooked in a spicy, simmering broth for hours, making it both tender and flavorful. My usual guest, Rob, tried a new dish: pork ribs. Again, delicious. The rice and beans were plentiful and tasty. The owner said the dinner menu should be ready by April 12 or so. I sense another opportunity.

Quick updates -- closing and opening

2007-04-09T23:21:00.000-04:00

I've learned from a friend that Kim Chee Express on Broad Street in Bethlehem is no longer open. To my knowledge, this was the only true Korean restaurant in the Lehigh Valley. Here's hoping that is a temporary condition for our region.

However, intrepid students at Muhlenberg College have told me that the former Churros Cafe in Allentown near 10th and Turner has reopened as a Carribean-Cuban restaurant. I can't recall the name, but I'll head there soon for a sampling. The students will publish their review along with dozens of other restaurant reviews in the soon-to-be updated Living Here in Allentown guidebook. (Last year's book is available as a fairly large PDF.)

Cuban sandwiches - one good, one so-so

2007-03-12T13:14:00.000-04:00

As I've noted earlier, I haven't had a good Cuban sandwich since the closing of Churros Cafe in Allentown. When I visited The Rock in January, chef David Arroyo said he makes the best Cuban sandwiches. How could I pass up the chance to try one?

Luckily, The Rock is less than a mile from my office at Spark, the Lehigh Valley advertising agency. So it didn't take me long to make it back.

For Cuban sandwich newbies, you can't find a simpler combination of ingredients that taste so delicious together. The general recipe consists of thinly sliced marinated pork, shaved ham, swiss cheese, pickles and yellow mustard on a fresh baguette that's spent several minutes in a sandwich press to warm and compress it. (More here.)

The Rock's version lived up to my past experiences. I detected faint hints of rosemary in the marinated pork. The ham and cheese were quite fresh. The pickles were thick and crunchy, providing a nice tang in concert with the mustard. No single ingredient overpowered the others. Without a doubt, it's the Cuban sandwich to beat in the Lehigh Valley. Even with an appetite, I could only finish half of the sandwich along with the rippled potato logs.

Four days earlier, I tried a Cuban sandwich at Billy's Downtown Diner on Broad and New streets. Way too much ham for my taste. (Though I do give Billy's points for trying to top load my food pyramid for the whole week.) And it was served on grilled sliced bread. I'm nitpicking. It was good, just not traditional. Don't judge Billy's on its Cuban sandwich. It's still the best diner in Bethlehem -- solid food, good service, a friendly smile.

But for a Cuban sandwich that would get Castro off his death bed, head to the Rock.

Dance over to Mambo

2007-03-12T13:04:00.000-04:00

Mambo
19th and Allen Streets, Allentown

Many of us in Allentown's West End Theater District have been waiting (and waiting and waiting) for Mambo to open on the corner of 19th and Allen streets. Finally, our wait is over. And based on my recent lunch, it was worth it. Named for the Cuban dance popularized during the 1950s, Mambo aims to serve a variety of dishes with a Latin influence -- some Mexican, some Spanish, some Caribbean.

For lunch, personable owner and chef Johansen Hernandez offers homemade chicken, fish (cod steaks?), pork and thinly sliced beef. The stewed chicken was tender, moist and wonderfully seasoned -- but not overly spicy. My friend, Rob, had the fish, which was equally wonderful. Johansen gave us samples of the beef, which simmered in a light tomato-based sauce. It offered a nice balance of traditional seasonings without overpowering the beef. That's next on my list. We weren't offered a menu -- we just went to the counter where we got a description of each dish and samples. (Try that at a chain restaurant.)

Each entree comes with rice and beans. The beans are a treat by themselves -- tender pintos swimming in a delectable sauce. They begged to be scooped atop the rice. (We listened.) A fairly standard side salad with tomato accompanied the meal. The price came in around $7.00 a person.

Johansen will offer an extended menu soon, which will include paella for two, octopus salad, red snapper dishes, and basic Mexican dishes like enchiladas and burritos.

As for atmosphere, Mambo is clean though relatively plain and straightforward. You're coming here for the authentic food -- not to be wowed by the decor. Mambo is BYO. I'd say beer is probably a stronger candidate than wine given the ample seasoning. But if it's wine you want, the state store is only 100 steps to the west.

Overall, Mambo is exactly the sort of business that makes neighborhoods like the West End distinct from the homogeneous suburbs, where Applebee's, TGIFriday's, Friendly's and the like offer formulaic menus, cookie-cutter decor and saccharine wait staff. For that reason alone, Mambo is worth visiting and supporting. Luckily, we have a restaurateur who is passionate about his food -- and confident in his ability to delight his customers. That seals the deal for me.

Fiesta Ole - Nothing worth cheering about

2007-02-18T15:13:00.000-05:00

It had been nearly a year since I visited Fiesta Ole in Emmaus. I had a decent lunch March 2006. Dinner two weeks ago, however, was a disappointment.

I found the dinner menu extremely uncreative. Nothing of interest stuck out, so I ordered two chicken burritos, one with red sauce, one with green. Both were uninspired, topped with tasteless chopped iceberg lettuce and unripe tomatoes. There's no liquor license, so a Negro Modelo or margarita was out of the question. And the men's bathroom felt like it could double for the walk-in cooler. With all of the outstanding Mexican places in Allentown, it's unlikely that I will return here.

Bring on the bizarre

2007-01-30T22:57:00.000-05:00

My recent octopus tentacle salad at The Rock has inspired me on a side mission: to find the most bizarre menu items in the Lehigh Valley. Some of the pre-meal side dishes at the Kim Chee Express might make the list. I'm not looking to be as wildly adventurous as Anthony Bourdain, who during his travels has injested unknown items that the locals claimed would "make him strong," in obvious reference to his sexual potency. Simply put, I'm game for some offbeat, extraordinary ingredients and preparation. Any recommendations?

The Center of the Universe

2007-01-12T22:25:00.000-05:00

Paprika's
1180 Main Street, Hellertown

With a last name like Drabenstott, the last thing you'd expect me to admit was that I'm half Hungarian. Well, I am. My maternal grandparents were both Hungarian. Their grandparents came over on the boat. So while I've confessed that I'm not an expert in many cuisines, I can confidently say that I grew up eating the most authentic Hungarian food this side of Budapest. (For some reason we affectionately referred to the Hungarian capital city as the center of the universe. I have yet to figure that out.)

For me, the new center of the universe is in Hellertown: Paprika's. I had heard good things from friends and read a favorable review in The Morning Call. So I had to check it out for myself and see if it could conjure up memories of my Grandmother Mimi's cooking.

The interior is plain and bordering on unfinished. A galvanized ventilation duct cut across the center of the ceiling and appeared to be a patchworked afterthought. Other than a few Hungarian posters and maps, it looked like a standard restaurant.

Perhaps that's because they focus their energy on the food. I started with a bowl of chicken soup that was obviously homemade. Thick with cabbage, carrots and noodles, the hearty soup was
everything I would have expected, and set the tone for the rest of the meal. For my salad dish, I ordered a traditional cucumber salad, which featured cukes in a sweet, creamy, thin, sour cream-like sauce. Again, fresh and delicious. (My wife had a standard dinner salad -- nothing special.) Our entrees arrived once they were completed in the kitchen. My wife had the Chicken Paprika's (paprikash): delectible chunks of tender chicken were enveloped in a paprika cream sauce and served atop small dumplings. Sublime. Like the soup, my Hungarian goulash was simple yet soulful -- perfectly cooked cubes of beef, potatoes and carrots swam in a rich beef broth. I ate more than I should have. It was that good.

Certainly, my meal at Paprika's did more than fill my belly. It evoked recollections of my childhood, sitting at the dinner table with my grandparents. That's the power of food -- it has a remarkable ability to leave an indelible print on your sensory memory.

All this pleasure came cheap: under $30 for the both of us. It's BYOB. Of course, that could also stand for Bring Your Own Buttonbox. For after a dinner at Paprika's, you'll be inclined to dance the polka all night to work off your wonderful meal.

Rock on

2007-01-07T21:59:00.000-05:00

The Rock
559 East Broad Street, Bethlehem
(610) 625-3541

I'd been watching this corner establishment on East Broad Street in Bethlehem for about a year wondering if it were on its way out or on its way in. After reading a brief article in Kurt Blumenau's retail watch, I learned it was gearing up for a grand opening in late Fall 2006. I've since visited The Rock for lunch and had an excellent experience.

The Rock has seating for about 25 people inside its tidy, new interior. The Rock bills itself as "international cuisine," with a definite lean toward Caribbean, Mexican and Cuban genres.

For my lunch, I opted for the most unusual item on the menu: octopus salad. Served only Jueves y Viernes (Thursday and Friday), I figured it had to be special and fresh. I ordered the small version for $7.15. The menu wasn't lying when it said octopus -- the salad was chock full of tentacles amid a vinegar and oil base. Chopped lettuce and peppers rounded out the dish. Four tender, fried plantains flanked the edges of the salad plate, offering a tasty diversion. The verdict: delicious. The octopus was tender and light. (I later learned from the chef that he poaches the octopus for about an hour and a half.) The dressing was just heavy enough to bind the ingredients without overpowering the subtle octopus. I rounded the meal out with outstanding black beans that were studded with chunks of green olive, which provided tang and depth to the dish. To munch on while I waited for the salad, they served broad Chinese-style fried chow mein noodles with salsa -- an odd combination.

Kurt's article indicates that The Rock is known for its Cuban sandwiches. Considering the recent closure of Churros Cafe in Allentown, The Rock could be the only restaurant where you can get an authentic Cuban sandwich. That alone is worth supporting. Other more exotic menu items include garlic shrimp with fried plantains and chopped salad ($8.49), whole fried red snapper on Creole sauce with rice or mashed plantains ($13.95) and Spanish steak with onions, rice, beans and chopped salad ($7.50).

As noted, the chef made a point to visit my table and talk with me. He indicated that he's looking to open for dinner on Thursdays and Fridays in early 2007. He shared a menu draft that features roasted swordfish with coriander scallion pesto, Spanish pork medallions and grilled ahi tuna in tomato beurre blanc. I'd have to say the options look adventerous and creative, though there's not a strong theme tying them together.

Service was friendly and helpful. I'll be back to try the Cuban sandwich.

Ethnic food at the Allentown Farmer's Market

2006-12-26T07:20:00.000-05:00

And I'm not talking about Pennsylvania Dutch delicacies or Amish bakeries. Here are several stands that make the Allentown Farmer's Market a great place to find ethnic food.

Fan's Asian Flavors at the market's east end offers excellent sushi (rolls and sashimi) and other Asian dishes such as seaweed salad, edamame, and kim chee, which the owner "imports" from Philadelphia. His sushi is as good as any I've had in the region. Frank Fan, the gentleman who owns the stand is always smiling and ready to engage in conversation. See his sushi menu.

Food of the Mediterranean has a large selection of entrees, salads and dips, including the world's best hummus. (At least it's the best I've ever tasted, and I've had hummus around the country.) Big bowls of tabouleh, fattoush, chick pea salad, baba ganouj, a fantastic rice/lentil concoction and others beg you to experiment. Luckily, it's easy: $6.50 buys you a platter of five salads. And leave room for some baklava.

Southern Delights just down the ramp and off to the right. As you might expect from the name, it sells food like black eyed peas, greens, fried chicken and jambalaya. I'm looking forward to sampling items periodically.

Also, there's a relatively new Italian stand across from Mr. Bill's Chicken. Their fresh mozzarella is incredible -- mild and silky. The prepared foods look delicious. The stand a nice complement to Il Magalio, which is at the bottom of the ramp. Il Magalio has a wonderful selection of cured Italian meats, pastas, sauces and imported foods.

It's fair to say the Allentown Farmer's Market has the densest concentration of ethnic food anywhere in the Lehigh Valley.

Two closings in Allentown

2006-12-26T07:01:00.000-05:00

Two ethnic restaurants -- one long-time favorite of mine and a newer one -- in Allentown appear to have closed.

The Churros Cafe near 10th and Turner was a Cuban restaurant that was open for at least 10 years. I found the food decent, but sometimes decent is all you need, especially when you want a Cuban fix. My wife and I stopped last week for lunch, but the restaurant was closed and a red "For Rent" was prominently displayed in the window. (I'll stop by on my Thursday run through Allentown to see if there's any additional notification.) To my knowledge, Churros Cafe was the only remaining Cuban restaurant in the Lehigh Valley after the closing of Cafe Havana in South Side Bethlehem. (I loved that place!) If you know of another, please post.

A couple of weeks ago, I tried to visit A Touch of Soul, a new soul food restaurant on Front Street in Allentown. (Read a Morning Call write-up.) Alas, a sign on the door indicated that a major utility had been shut off, hence the restaurant was closed. I'll drive by again soon to see if it has reopened. If you're in Philly and want excellent soul food, I'd recommend Ms. Tootsie's.

Authentic Italian at Sette Luna

2006-11-26T20:47:00.000-05:00

Most of the posts on Beyond Scrapple are for hole-in-the-wall ethnic eateries. However, today's experience at Sette Luna in Easton (219 Ferry Street.) compels me to prepare a quick write up. Today my family and I attended a private party hosted by a newly married couple, both of whom have strong Italian links. We were treated to an amazing selection of appetizers, entrees and desserts during the multi-course meal. (I'll refrain from mentioning specific dishes, as some were created specifically for the private function.) What I can say is that everything tasted freshly made, authentic and soulful -- remarkable considering the kitchen and staff served about 35 people. My wife and I plan to return to Sette Luna for a full dinner; expect a report. (The Morning Call's recent review seems to echo my experience.)

Update on Mr. V's Blues Cafe

2006-11-21T05:53:00.000-05:00

Mr. V's Blues Cafe (reviewed here) is no longer open. Mr. V is working at the pastry chef at Melt, the new upscale Italian restaurant in the Promenade Shops at Lehigh Valley. Considering the site has been a restaurant for decades, we'll keep an eye on it to see when something new arrives.

Steady Mexican in downtown Allentown

2006-11-18T18:28:00.000-05:00

La Mexicana Grill
407 N 7th St.
(610) 776-1910

Often, people ask me for a good Mexican restaurant in Allentown that's easy to find. Immediately, I direct them to Mexicana Grill on 7th Street and Gordon. (Just look for the green and white awning.) The restaurant has been there for as long as I can remember. And the food is authentic and consistently delicious. Lunches offer a twist on Americanized Mexican fare. (At a recent visit, I enjoyed a chicken enchilada with a unique green chili sauce.) But the restaurant really shines at dinner. The daily additions complement an already diverse menu. Fish and shellfish options are especially good -- a red snapper special arrived at my plate piping hot yet flaky and seasoned wonderfully with a chili concoction and lime. The chicken mole is deep and seductive. And they have one of the best side dishes: poblano sweet potatoes, which are worthy of the limelight by themselves. La Mexicana is BYO, so you can bring a cooler you favorite Mexican brew or some margaritas. I've seen the place vary in terms of crowdedness, so if you're showing up at prime time on the weekends, I'd make reservations first. You'd hate to miss out.

Cajun food (and more) and conversation in Bethlehem

2006-08-17T09:32:00.000-04:00

Mr. V's Blues Cafe
59 East Broad St., 610-866-8412

My first experience with jambalaya was at Tulane University in New Orleans. I was traveling with the Bowling Green State University baseball team. Between games of a doubleheader, a rotund cajun man rolled a huge cast iron kettle behind the stands and proceeded to throw in "the trinity" -- onions, celery and green peppers -- along with andouille sausage, chicken, diced tomatoes and a load of rice. The aroma spread through the stands. I snuck out of the press box for 10 minutes to grab a sample of the spicy, satisfying dish, returning after the game for several helpings. Since then, I've been a huge jambalaya fan. (I make my own version at home; I'd be happy to share the recipe if anyone's interested.)

I've also found that jambalaya is almost never the same from chef to chef. To wit: Mr. V's Blues Cafe in Bethlehem replaces the sausage with succulent shrimp. I found no evidence of celery, and red peppers were used instead of green. Ordered "spicy", the entree exploded with delicious flavor.

Mr. V. -- Van Whitmore -- is an affable owner/chef. With his deep, soothing voice, he hosts a jazz show a couple of nights a week on WDIY. Considering that his restaurant has only about 15 seats, he can hold conversations with the entire seating area at one time. Old sheet music adorns the walls and tables. Of course, blues and jazz music adds to the mood.

Other menu options include sausage with rice and beans (hearty and tasty) and a grilled salmon with an apricot glaze, which I'm going to try my next time there. He also serves a variety of sandwiches and breakfast items that appear standard, but are likely extraordinary.

Mr. V's is only open for breakfast and lunch (until 2), so it's worth calling first to make sure you can get in.

Quick update on West End Allentown pub/eatery

2006-08-14T23:09:00.000-04:00

In his West End blog, Damien Brown updates us on the attractive new awning (and some Monday night noshing) at Jack Callahan's on Tilghman. He also reports that a new Mexican/Dominican eatery is slated for the corner of 19th and Allen. Of course, you'll get a full, multi-course report once it opens. Thanks for the updates, Damien.

Kim's Deli -- a Korean find in Center Valley

2006-07-10T05:37:00.000-04:00

My wife has become a bit of a foodie. So when she told me to check out Kim's Deli on 309 North across from the main entrance to Southern Lehigh High School, I knew I was in for a treat.

The deli appears traditional until you start looking at the food case and menu. All sorts of Korean dishes stand out: kim chee soup, lentil cakes, spicy chicken, pot stickers. I mention all of these because my colleagues at Spark and I tried them all. The pot stickers were filled with fresh pork stuffing, while the chicken was nicely hot, but not overwhelming. The lentil cakes were crisp and light.

Kim was extremely helpful and friendly. She obviously takes pride in her cooking and deli.

There are five or six tables inside so you can enjoy the food there or take it to go. Either way, you can't miss.

Three ethnic food groceries

2006-07-10T05:30:00.000-04:00

Just a quick note about three ethnic groceries I've frequently recently.

The first is an Indian grocery on the square in downtown Emmaus. (I know, all you people from Emmaus think I must not get out much.) This is one of the cleanest, most widely stocked Indian stores I've been to in the Lehigh Valley since the closing of the Indian market on Fullerton Avenue. They have a selection of prepared dishes (rices, spice mixes for meats and veggies), excellent Indian snacks (spicy!) and a freezer section with all sorts of foods.

Next, I noticed an African grocery in Allentown on North 8th Street near Linden. The hours are strange -- so sporadic, in fact, that I have not been around when it is open. The shelves appear somewhat sparse. Still, I don't know of any other African places in the Lehigh Valley.

Finally, a favorite is the Tiem A Dong Asian grocery on 12th and Walnut in Allentown, just south of the Allentown Library. I've purchased a wide selection of sauces, spices and culinary treats here. They also have fresh vegetables and fish in addition to frozen items. I highly recommend this place.

Turkish in Allentown

2006-06-29T05:18:00.000-04:00

ACI Halal
2nd and Linden, Allentown

The word "Halal" means "permissable," as in foods that are acceptable for Muslims to eat. (Good article here.) From an enjoyment standpoint, I couldn't agree more with the food at ACI Halal.

I've been here several times and have always had an excellent experience. On my most recent visit with guys at Spark, we enjoyed some falafel (crisp on the outside, tender in), and some red lentil cakes that were formed into finger-sized bites. Three at the table had Turkish gyros, which were deemed delicious, while I enjoyed a skewered lamb pita sandwich. The lamb was seasoned nicely with Arabic spices and seared.

I'd also recommend sampling two of the many salads offered in the deli case. On a previous visit, I had a navy bean salad with peppers and a potato salad topped with loads of fresh parsley. Both tasted like they were made that morning. Like most Middle Eastern food, the dishes are spiced, not overwhelmingly hot.

We also had Turkish coffee -- pleasantly bitter and dense. Unlike some Middle Eastern restaurants, they do not add cardamom to their coffee. (According to the waitress, traditional Turkish coffee has no cardamom; only Arabic coffee does.)